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Midtbö Repeats 5.15b in Spain

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Magnus Midtbö climbing at the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, in 2010. Midtbö finished 11th overall. Photo by Caroline Treadway

8/30/2010 – Norwegian climber Magnus Midtbö has repeated Dani Andrada’s 5.15b sit-start extension to Alí Hulk in the Alí Baba cave in Rodellar, Spain.

Midtbö worked for more than three weeks on this route/boulder problem, which can be divided into two sections: the route starts with V9 bouldering and climbs 25 meters through a 5.14b horizontal roof. Midtbö, who bouldered through the first part wearing a harness, finished the route clipped into a rope. Says Midtbö on his blog, “I rested the whole day as usual, and I did it on my first try of the day. I have never put so much time towards a climb before.”

This is likely the second ascent of the route. According to UKClimbing.com, there are only about eight 5.15b’s in the world, and only one other 5.15b has seen a second ascent (when Adam Ondra repeated Chris Sharma’s Golpe de Estado).

UPDATED: UKClimbing.com has posted an interview with Midtbö (translated from the French site Kairn.com) about his send. Read it here.

Date of ascent: August 29, 2010

Sources: magnusmidtboe.com