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Midtboe on Blood Redemption. Photo courtesy of Magnusmidtboe.com
9/30/10 – News link: Norwegian climber Magnus Midtboe climbed Blood Redemption, a sit-start extension to Gjeddehenget (V13/14) at Matre in Bergen, Norway. Midtboe is proposing V15 for his new problem.
He blogs, “Today, at the very last minute, I did the hardest problem of my life. The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder.”
The problem now encompasses 24 moves, which he says “suits me better than any other Boulder [sic], mostly because of its length. It’s not all about one or two moves.”
In August, Midtboe joined the elite group of 5.15 climbers with his ascent of Dani Andrada’s 5.15b sit-start extension to Ali Hulk in Rodellar, Spain. He also placed fifth in lead and third combined (lead, boulder, and speed) at the European Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, earlier this month.
Date of ascent: September 29, 2010