The new route on Puscantrupa Este in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash, seen from the south. Alter a two-day approach to base camp, Pavle Kozjek and Grega Fresal fired the 600-meter climb in a 14-hour round trip. Photo by Pavle Kozjek.
Slovenian Pavle Kozjek and partner Grega Kresal have made the first ascent of the East Face of 5,410-meter Puscantrupa Este—and probably the second ascent of the peak—in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash. Their new line, called Stonehenge (600 meters, 5.11 70° ice), ascends an ice face to ten pitches of steep climbing on volcanic rock. Although some of the rock was excellent, other passages were guarded by dangerous shattered blocks, where Kozjek said, “Our knowledge about unstable rock from the Slovenian mountains was extremely useful.” The duo completed the route in a 14-hour round trip.
Stonehenge is Kozjek’s eighth new alpine route in Peru during nearly annual visits since 1990, including the first ascent of the East Face of Chacraraju Este, also with Kresal, in 1993. Last fall, Kozjek, then 47, made the first solo single-push ascent of a new route on an 8,000-meter peak, pioneering a new line on the Southwest Face of Cho Oyu in just 14.5 hours from advanced base camp to the summit.
Date of Ascent: July 6, 2007
Sources: Pavle Kozjek, www.extremekanal.com, American Alpine Journal