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Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced for 2007

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Fifteenth Annual Mugs Stump Award Grants Financial Support to Small Climbing Teams with Light and Fast Alpine Objectives

VENTURA, CA. (February 5, 2007) – Mugs Stump Award sponsors, Black Diamond Equipment, Patagonia, Climbing Magazine, Mountain Gear, and W.L. Gore, announce the recipients of the 2007 Mugs Stump Award. Created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most visionary climbers, the award annually grants $12,000 to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that exemplify light, fast, and clean alpinism.

The 2007 applications (14 in all) included many strong teams with objectives in far-flung corners of the mountaineering world, from Alaska to China to Peru to Pakistan. In the end, five teams with outstanding talent and objectives were granted awards, ranging from $500 to $4,000.

2007 Mugs Stump Award Winners:

• Colin Haley and Jed Brown: Propose a first ascent of the Hidden Pillar (Southwest Pillar) of Ultar Sar (7,388m), located in the Hunsa Valley of Pakistan. The pillar, which rises 3,200m from base to summit, has been attempted three times before, all well short of the summit.

• Maxime Turgeon and Yan Mongrain: Propose a first ascent of the North Face of K6 to its west summit. K6 (7,281m) is located in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan and has been climbed twice before, but no attempts have been made on the North Face.

• Josh Wharton and Bean Bowers: Propose a first ascent of the North Ridge of Latok 1 (7,145m), located between the Choktoi and Biafo Glaciers, Pakistan. The 2,450-meter ridge of snow, ice, and rock has been attempted more than 20 times since 1979, and remains one of the great prizes of the Karakoram.

• Cory Richards, Dana Ruddy and Eamonn Walsh: Propose a first ascent of the Southeast Face of Huantsan (6,369m), located in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.

• Freddie Wilkinson, Kevin Mahoney, and Ben Gilmore: Propose a first ascent of the South Face of The Fin (4,000m), located on the remote Yetna Glacier, Alaska. The face is an estimated 1,500 meters of technical mixed climbing, and the peak itself, south of Mount Foraker in the Central Alaska Range, has only seen two recorded ascents since 1934.

More about the Mugs Stump Award:All of the alpine objectives awarded embody the spirit of the late Mugs Stump. Mugs Stump was best known for his first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies and a triptych of brilliant Alaskan climbs – the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali’s Cassin Ridge. He sought out striking and highly technical objectives, preferably first ascents, in some of the most remote mountains of the world. Mugs saw climbing as a celebration of boldness, purity, and simplicity.

Applications are reviewed for how they further the legacy of Mugs Stump with climbs proposed in the spirit of adventure and exploration, and that emphasize light, fast, leave-no-trace climbing. Award applicants are evaluated on the strength of their objective, the strength of their team, and on an objective that raises the bar defining what is possible in alpinism today. For more information on the award, past recipients and their trip reports visit Applications are due by December 31st and trips must be taken between February, of the year awarded, and the following January.

Contact: Jake Martin, 805.667.4675,

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