New Long Free Route in Yosemite - Climbing Magazine

New Long Free Route in Yosemite


10/19/12 - Mikey Schaefer has completed an eight-day redpoint of a new 5.13 on the ca. 2,000-foot north face of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. Father Time took Schaefer 40 days over two years to establish before he went for his free ascent, including hand-drilling more than 100 bolts.

Middle Cathedral sits directly across from El Capitan. The first 10 pitches of Father Time involve 70-degree slab climbing with difficulty up to 5.12; then the angle gets steep as the line enters the headwall and the route's crux, a V7/8 boulder problem. Two pitches of 5.13 and two pitches of 5.12 follow before several hundred feet of easy climbing lead to the summit.

This isn't the first long and hard Yosemite route Schaefer has established. His resume also includes Night Shift (IV 5.12) and Retrospective (IV 5.11+ R), Fairview Dome; Rise and Fall of the Albatross (II 5.13), Daff Dome; and Border Country (V 5.12 R), Middle Cathedral.

Dates of ascent: October 9-16, 2012

Source: Jeff Johnson/