New Route on Huntington


Jack Tackle and Fabrizio Zangrilli climbed a new route on the Southwest Face of Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range, completing the 4,000-foot line alpine-style in a three-day round trip. The new route starts to the right of the classic Harvard Route buttress that splits that West Face and trends right, staying well to the left of the Phantom Wall, the 1991 original route on the Southwest Face.The two men climbed for 14 hours on the first day, bivied, and then did a 27-hour push up and down from the bivy site. They belayed 17 pitches and simulclimbed the rest of the route, with 10 pitches of “solid” mixed climbing through two rock bands right of the Harvard Route’s big rock pitches. At the top of their line, they joined the Harvard Route and headed for the top, but were stopped about 500 feet below the 12,240-foot summit by storm and darkness. They retreated from there, calling their line The Imperfect Apparition.