9/10/10 - News link: After nine days of climbing over six months, Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen have established a new aid route on the Titan in the Fisher Towers, Utah: Gimp Warfare (5.9, A3, eight pitches). The pair sought out the line in March 2010 and finished in a four-day effort in late August. The pair had to wait until 2 p.m. to start, as the line soaks in the sun all morning.
The route starts about 50 yards to the right of World's End in an obvious crack system. The route then traverses left before trending back right and finishing at the top belay for Finger of Fate. The pair drilled 32 lead bolts in the eight pitches.
The pair sustained numerous injuries during the six months. In April, while descending fourth-class terrain, Gagner dislodged a rock and fell 10 to 12 feet, breaking his foot. A month later, a boulder rolled over Aslaksen's foot in Albuquerque, breaking bones in three toes. Then, during their last trip, Jeremy pulled a ligament from the bone in the same foot while hiking. Neither climber has completely healed.
The Titan is the largest of the Fisher Towers, and the largest free-standing tower in the U.S.
For Aslaksen's colorful account of this climb and many photos, visit Supertopo.com.
Date of ascent: August 2010