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New Route on Trango Tower


The Russian route on the northwest face of Trango Tower in Pakistan.
The Russian route on the northwest face of Trango Tower in Pakistan.

9/21/11 – A Russian expedition has climbed the first mostly independent new route on Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) in many years. The four-man team spent 10 days climbing a 1,000-meter line up the rarely visited northwest face of the 6,239-meter (20,469-foot) spire in the Baltoro region of Pakistan.

Viktor Volodin, Dmitriy Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, and Alexander Yurkin climbed capsule-style, using three intermediate camps. They summited in poor weather on August 12 and then descended to advanced base camp by August 13. They called the route No Fear (VII 6b+ A3), the slogan of the Moscow climbing club Demchenko, of which all the climbers are members.

Only one previous route had breached Trango Tower’s northwest face: Insumisioa, climbed by a Basque team in 1995.

Two other climbers on the Moscow expedition repeated the Slovenian Route on the southeast face of the tower.

Date of ascent: August 2011

Sources: mountain.ru, Anna Piunova, thebmc.co.uk