New Routes in Patagonia
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1/14/11 – On the first day of January, Americans Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman climbed a new route on Cerro Pollone in Argentinean Patagonia and, in the process, completed the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East. Their route on the east face, Re Puesto! (V 800m 5.10 A1), climbs a granite buttress threatened by seracs on either side to reach a snowfield and then mixed free and aid on the exposed upper east ridge.
The two men descended the south face and then down to the southeast, with a brief bivouac en route, returning to town after a long day on January 2. This was the same excellent weather opening in which Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, and Mikey Schaefer climbed a new route on Aguja Mermoz.
In December, Argentinean climbers Luciano Fiorenza and Jimmy Heredia, along with Sergio Tartari from Brazil, climbed a new line to the top of the North Pillar of Fitz Roy. The three men bivouacked twice on the new route, called Al Abordaje! (900m 6c A2+), and once on top of the pillar. They reported the rock was excellent and the route was likely to go free.
Dates of Ascents: December-January 2011
Sources: Colin Haley, joelandneilsclimbingblog.blogspot.com, pataclimb.com
