November 2009 - 280 - EPICS ISSUE - Climbing Magazine

November 2009 - 280 - EPICS ISSUE

COVER: Peter Vintoniv high above a frozen Lake Superior, Grand Portal Point, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Munising, Michigan. PHOTO: Andrew Burr /


GALLERY The otherworldly (Lake) Superior ice of Munising, Michigan — a frozen surreality shot masterfully by Andrew Burr.

BROKE-DOWN MOUNTAIN “The season had been one crazy event after the next, each escape just narrow enough that I couldn’t help but contemplate my own fragility. . . . ” —Micah Dash In their final Climbing story, the late Micah Dash and Jonny Copp give us a rare, raw glimpse of their 2008 Alps season. By Micah Dash Photos by Jonny Copp

AMPED Epics don’t only happen in the mountains. Here, three severely wounded Iraq War veterans rebuild themselves through vertical therapy — and detail the heartbreaking events that nearly claimed their lives. By Andrea Sutherland

LOSE YOURSELF Think fast: you’re unroped nearly 2,000 feet up Half Dome’s VI 5.12 Regular Northwest Face, and you’ve come to a screeching halt on a 5.11+ slab. Now what? By Alex Honnold Illustration courtesy of SuperTopo

SIDEWAYS La Traversee Sans Retour moves nearly 3,000 feet across Les Calanques sea cliffs, near Marseille, France. Aaron Black and friend fi nd out just how horrific this 1963 route can be, especially when the stone harbors a wicked little surprise. Story and Photos by Aaron Black

MINI-EPICS NO REASON WHY Two house-key photos, two tragic deaths — what’s the connection?

LOVE ON THE ROCKS Why three’s a good number only for climbing


CONTRIBUTORS Jenn Fields, Alex Honnold, Dave Long, and Todd Smith

EDITORIAL Unbroken chain: bringing Micah and Jonny’s final feature to print


JUST OUT 6 new winter items to rock your dome

HOT FLASHES Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer FA 11-pitch 5.13a and FFA a 5.12d in Cirque of the Unclimbables; McColl ticks Dreamcatcher (5.14d); more . . .

THE HAULBAG Overheard (werd!); The Crux: Boulder vs. New Jersey; velociraptor sending power; tattoo you; more . . .

OFF THE WALL Czech yourself!: the insanity of Adrspach tower jumping

PLAYERS Blake Herrington: Washington’s accidental hardman

TEN THINGS . . . Ouray Ice Park

ROADKILL Post-expedition depression: the inevitable comedown?

OPEN BIVY Conrad Anker and Seth Shaw’s transformative trip up (and abruptly down) the Kichatnas’ Middle Triple Peak

SUSTAINED Climbers go big with the Outdoor Alliance

CLASSIC CLIMBS Epinephrine (IV 5.9), Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock National Conservation Area, Nevada. Heart-racing chimney and face in (where else?) Red Rock

TECH TIPS Technique: 6 tips for savvier (and calmer) slab mastery Sport: cold-weather rock climbing — 9 ways to make the dream a reality

MILEAGE 5 Joshua Tree hidden gems to beat the crowds

REVIEWS The eerie Third Man Factor; The Players DVD heats up the screen; and Steve House’s gripping autobiography

ANCHORED Bruce Hildenbrand, a Cali-rado climber doing ARI work since the way back

PERSPECTIVE Renny Jackson: alpinist, climbing ranger, guidebook author, historian, father; Kelly, Wyoming