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October 2009 – 279

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COVER: Chris Thomas on thin ice — The Zicicle, Englestead Canyon, Zion National Park, Utah. PHOTO: Andrew Burr /


GALLERY Towering Inferno: ninja photographer Jim Thornburg takes you on an arresting tour of Devils Tower, Wyoming.

INDEX CLUB Join two Washington-state locals as they divulge the rich, complex, and sometimes-tragic history of the brilliant Index Town Walls, where retreating hardmen have quietly authored free granite testpieces over the past four decades. By Angele Sjong Photos by Ben Gilkison

DER KLETTERGARTEN In Washington state’s Wenatchee Mountains, the sublime blocs of Leavenworth and Gold Bar have fueled a Northwest bouldering renaissance — just don’t forget your alpenstock, dirndl, and lederhosen. By Jackie Hueftle and Kelly Sheridan Photos by Max Hasson

INTO THE WILD Four women and one photographer head into the blue-ice paradise of the remote Icefall Brook, British Columbia, finding first ascents aplenty and a futuristic cave that might house the world’s stoutest mixed route.By Caroline George Photos by Jon Walsh

THE ZICICLE Ice climbing in Zion National Park? Surely, you jest. . . . Story and Photos by Andrew Burr

“BE KIND, BE STRONG, BE HAPPY, AND TRY HARD.” On August 9, Craig Luebben, the guide, author, photographer, talented all-arounder, and Climbing Senior Contributing Editor, lost his life climbing in the Cascades. Here, a friend remembers Luebben and his untold gifts to our community. By Cameron Cross


CONTRIBUTORS Ben Gilkison, Caroline George, Leah Miller, Angele Sjong

EDITORIAL Climbing mourns the passing of Senior Contributing Editor Craig Luebben.


JUST OUT 6 hot items to warm autumn’s chill

HOT FLASHES Radical new lines on the Stikine Icecap and Mendenhall Towers, Alaska; and Hukkataival’s V15 Rocklands coup

OFF THE WALL Meet Richard Jones, the Treadwall mileage master; Overheard (super-funny . . . )

PLAYERS Zhenja Kazbekova: the world’s youngest female (only 12) to redpoint 5.13d/5.14a

TEN THINGS . . . Castleton Tower

ROADKILL An overworked guide faces a life-or-death decision on Aconcagua’s teeming slopes.

SPORTING LIFE What not to say to your significant climbing other, a love quiz for couples

SUSTAINED It’s high time we cared about approach trails.

CLASSIC CLIMBS Kor-Ingalls (III 5.9), Castleton Tower, Utah: a venerable trade route up the desert’s most popular spire

TECH TIPS Technique: climb smart . . . like an amputee. Training: vanquish tendonitis by working your opposition muscles and stretching.

MILEAGE Oman: desert-limestone and deep-water mania on the Arabian peninsula

REVIEWS Bookfest: new full-color guides to Boulder Canyon, the Flatirons, and Zion; Colorado Fourteener disasters; and how to get expedition funding

ANCHORED Tod Anderson, the Front Range anti-slacker

PERSPECTIVE Huntley Ingalls: desert pioneer, tower master, cave explorer, geophysicist, mathematician; Boulder, Colorado