October 2010 - 289



GALLERY Alps inspiration, Phantom knobs, J-Tree jamming, Conchise plates, Squamish thrills

STONEY POINT The beauty of these tattooed L.A. boulders may be only in the minds of the beholders, but here's a fact: they've shaped and strengthened American climbing—and climbers—since the 1930s. By Cole Gibson

THE PROJECTTommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are beginning year four of their attempt to free-climb El Capitan's tallest, smoothest sector: the Dawn Wall. Here's an inside look at the tactics, training, and mental preparation for the world's hardest rock climb—plus jaw-dropping photos. By Dougald MacDonald

THE COLOSSUSAfter 20 years of climbing desert towers, what could possibly offer a new challenge? How about an elegant, unclimbed, 450-foot tower... made of dirt? By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett


Contributors Matt Skenazy, Cole Gibson, Crusher Bartlett

Editorial An inspiring meeting prompts an ambitious agenda


Just OutAn innovative new line of cams, an ultralight harness, a healing balm, and a hot new parka

Hot FlashesThe first V13 by a woman, and the first free ascent of a legendary (and crumbling) Norwegian wall

Off the WallClimbing in Kurdistan; plus, a new hut for Alaskan climbers

Ten Things...Colorado's most famous slab: the Third Flatiron

PlayersMatt Maddaloni: inventor of the Anticam

Tech TipsRopework I: A clever coil and other anti-snarl tips Ropework II: Safer rappels; the rodeo clip

ReviewsClimbing philosophy, Crusher's Desert Towers, and French spiderman Alain Robert's autobiography

Classic ClimbsHalf Dome's legendary Snake Dike might just be the best 5.7 in the world

Mileage Revealed: the beautiful (and uncrowded) granite bouldering on the Greek island of Tinos

Anchored Micah Gentry cleans up the Dirty South

Perspective The master speaks: Royal Robbins