4/4/12 - Adam Ondra made the first ascent of a route at Labák in his native Czech Republic that he thinks is 5.14d: To tu ještě nebylo, or "Never been here before."
Planetmountain.com has the report by Ondra, who bolted the line ground-up with fellow Czech climber Ondra Benes. To tu ještě nebylo is a unique route in the Czech Republic; most of the country's hard lines are vertical with interspersed boulder problems, but To tu ještě nebylo is overhanging and sustained. And many of the country's crags are staunchly traditional; the soft sandstone routes are protected only by knots, and establishing a climb by rappel is against local ethos. However, Labák, which sits close to the German border on the river Elbe, "most resembles sport climbing," Ondra writes. "Modern routes are fairly well protected, with bolts much closer than in the other areas, especially at the crux sections."
To tu ještě nebylo has some interesting history. About five years ago, the route was rap-bolted by a German climber who chipped two holds in the process. Accordingly, locals chopped the bolts. Last spring, Ondra Benes placed three bolts ground-up, with Adam Ondra placing the fourth and last bolt that fall.
Is a 5.14d for Ondra even news anymore? This is, at least, his 40th of the grade; sixth have been first ascents.
Watch the video below to see Adam on To tu ještě nebylo.
Date of ascent: March 18, 2012