Pringle Claims 5.14d FA in China - Climbing Magazine

Pringle Claims 5.14d FA in China

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Pringle on a one-footed bat hang ten feet below the first crux. Photo by Lee Cujes

Pringle on a one-footed bat hang ten feet below the first crux. Photo by Lee Cujes

12/20/10 - After three days of attempts, Ethan Pringle has managed the first ascent of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) in Yangshuo, China. This line was originally dubbed The Dumpling of All Evil project when Chris Sharma opened it due to its similarities to the Virgin River Gorge's The Route of All Evil.

Pringle proposes 5.14d for the line, saying, "I think it's in the 9a range, judging by how much harder it is than the other routes on the cliff, and how freakin' hard it felt when I first tried it." He says Spicy Dumpling is more his style—"Lots of big moves between pinches and incut crimps, and I like the angle a lot."

Pringle made it to the third and final crux on his second try of the day but fell when he broke off a "pebble/crozley thumbcatch on the newly discovered lefthand tufa pinch." Knowing he only had one more attempt before dark, Pringle fired the rig third go.

Pringle has had a wildy successful trip so far in China, sending Sharma's Spicy Noodle (5.14c), French Gangster (5.14b), Thunder (5.14a), and multiple other difficult routes. This also marks the end of a triumphant year, considering his serious shoulder injury sustained at ABS Nationals in February 2009. Other notable sends this year include his third ascent of the Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d) in Grampians, Australia, and the second ascent of The Golden Ticket at the Chocolate Factory (5.14d), Red River Gorge.

Read more and see photos on his blog.

Date of ascent: December 16, 2010


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