Pringle Climbs Spicy Noodle, Other 5.14s

Ethan Pringle on French Gangster (5.14b) at White Mountain, Yangshuo. Photo courtesy of

Ethan Pringle on French Gangster (5.14b) at White Mountain, Yangshuo. Photo courtesy of

12/9/10 - 2010 has been a successful year for Ethan Pringle. He raged in Australia, crushed at the Red River Gorge, and most recently melted some limestone in Yangshuo, China.

Pringle has managed more than 12 5.13s or harder while in China. Two days ago while in White Mountain, he pulled off the likely third ascent of Chris Sharma's Spicy Noodle (5.14c, second ascent Liu Yong Bang), China's most difficult route, in only four attempts. "This is one of the best limestone routes I've ever done, fo sho," Pringle says on his scorecard. Also impressive: he climbed the route while recovering from a bad bout with food poisoning.

Two more hard sends came on November 26 at Lei Pi Shan, where he fired Thunder (5.14a) and Lightning (5.13d) first and second go, respectively.

On November 28, he almost flashed Blue Magic (5.13d), but fell from the top crux. Despite the "effing humidity and slippery ass holds," he tied back in and sent on his second attempt.

The next day, he climbed French Gangster (5.14b) first go after hanging the draws the previous evening. "It was a little unexpected, considering I didn't have the beta through the crux dialed in as much as I would have liked," he blogged. And even despite the route's one chipped hold—apparently the line can be climbed just four feet left of where the chipped hold is—"I was extremely psyched to do this route second go and think it's definitely an area classic at the grade."

On December 1, Pringle onsighted Red Dragon (5.13d), which he called a "Rifle 8a [5.13b]," and flashed Sea of Tranquility (5.14a), a Moon Hill testpiece.

Visit to see more photos and read more about his trip to China.

Dates of ascents: November-December 2010