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Puccio Wins 2012 Arco RockMaster Bouldering

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The competition includes the world’s eight highest-ranked climbers, winners from RockMaster 2011 (if they’re not included among the top eight), and the top five qualifiers from the International Open in both men and women’s lead climbing and bouldering.


The bouldering events took on a elimination-style competition, where each participant got three attempts per problem. Only three athletes remain by the last problem.

Juliane Wurm, Melissa Le Neve, and Alex Puccio finished the first problem easily, followed quickly by Katharina Saurwein. Olga Iakovleva was the only woman to send the second problem. Saurwein and Puccio climbed easily through the powerful pinches and lock-offs on problem three. Puccio was the only woman to send the final problem, flying through a double dyno and securing her win. Le Neve placed second, with Saurwein finishing third.

The men’s competition was closer. Flashes and second-try attempts bounced back and forth between the top three finishers. The final three, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Klemen Becan, and Rustam Gelmanov, all struggled on the final problem, unable to finish the double dyno crux. After a slight adjustment by routesetters, Sharafutdinov was the only man to stick the finishing hold, cementing his first place finish. Gelmanov finished second, followed by Becan.

Lead climbing

Angela Eiter swept her sixth gold medal in the lead event, being the only woman to onsight both lead routes. She finished above teammate Christine Schranz and Evgenia Malamid. Sasha DiGiulian, the only other U.S. climber to compete, and who won the overall gold medal at the RockMaster 2011, did not make the final round this year.

Spanish climber Ramón Julian Puigblanque conclusively took first as the only man to onsight both routes. Like Eiter, this marks his sixth RockMaster Lead title. Jakob Schubert ranked third in his first lead event and easily completed the second route, earning him second place overall. Jorg Verhoeven received the bronze medal.


The RockMaster event also features the duel, a speed race where the top eight athletes climb simultaneously on identical routes, in the 5.11d to 5.12 range. This year, Dinara Fakhritdinova and Jakob Shubert sprinted their way to first place.

Arco Rock Legends awards

DiGuilian received the year’s Salewa Rock Award, an honor given to the climber with the best style, performance, and influence in sport or bouldering. The Sportiva Competition Award, given to the best competitor of the season, went to Anna Stöhr. A jury pooled from international climbing publications selected the athletes from a list of nominees. German climbing legend and alpinist Stefan Glowacz also received the Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil award.

Seven lead and speed climbing competitions remain for the 2012 season, including the World Championships in Paris on September 16.

Women’s Bouldering Results

  1. Alex Puccio (USA)

  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)

  3. Katharina Saurwein (Austria)

  4. Juliane Wurm (Germany)

  5. Olga Iakovleva (Russia)

  6. Valery Kremer (Israel)

Men’s Bouldering Results

  1. Dmitri Sharafutdinov (Russia)

  2. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)

  3. Klemen Becan (Slovenia)

  4. Jakob Schubert (Austria)

  5. Lucas Preti (Italy)

  6. Jure Becan (Slovenia)

Women’s Lead Results

  1. Angela Eiter (Austria)

  2. Christine Schranz (Austria)

  3. Evgenia Malamid (Russia)

  4. Jenny Lavarda (Italy)

  5. Barbara Bacher (Austria)

  6. Valery Kremer (Israel)

Men’s Lead Results

  1. Ramón Julian Puigblanque (Spain)

  2. Jakob Schubert (Austria)

  3. Jorg Verhoven (Netherlands)

  4. Mikhail Chernikov (Russia)

  5. Adam Ondra (Czech Republic)

  6. Mario Lechner (Austria)

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