Ramon Julian: Four New 5.14s in Spain


4/9/13 - Ramón Julián Puigblanque has had a busy month: In the span of two weeks, the Spaniard established four 5.14s, including one 5.14d.

On March 10, Ramón Julián focused his energy on a project in Moià called AnanFlutan, for which he proposed 5.14c/d after completion. (Below is a video of the route.) Two weeks later, he headed to the Cueva Negra in Montanejos to attempt another project: La Parada de los Monstruos. The climb was too wet on his first visit, so he returned the next day to clinch the first ascent, suggesting 5.14d for this 150-foot route. He tried two other routes in the Pilas Alcalinas area, Exotica (5.14c) and El Maquinista (5.15a?), but both had wet cruxes that deterred more attempts.

Two days later, Ramón Julián headed to the Pont d'en Valentí sector in Sadernes. He climbed Orioniscada (5.14b), which links Orion and La Mariscada (both 5.14a). Two days after that, he continued his hunt for hard routes in La Balma del Gaiato sector in Montserrat, where in four attempts he finished El noi de Manlleu. The final dynamic move had been spitting him off, but he fired through that crux and called the route 5.14c.

In the same area, Ramón Julián attempted a route called Red Ram, which he thinks might be 5.14d or 5.15a. But after breaking off a good hold near the bottom, he put it aside for an attempt another day.

Dates of ascents: March 10–28, 2013

Source: ramonjulian.blogspot.com, 8a.nu

Below: Ramón Julián on AnanFlutan.

"AnanFlutan" 8c+/9a , Moià from Ramon Julian on Vimeo.