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Lisa Rands sent Nutsa (V12) despite rainy weather at the sandstone mecca of Rocklands, South Africa. Rands had tried the problem on previous trips to the area, but bad weather and injury hindered her success last year.
“The first day [this season] I climbed past all the hard moves and inexplicably slipped off by making a mistake after the crux,” said Rands. “For me Nutsa became more of a mental block than a physical challenge.”
Nutsa involves powerful slaps and body tension moves up a steep prow with long reaches, heel-hooks and lock-offs. Rands repeatedly raced to the crux move, but fell making a long deadpoint with her left hand at 5’4” all the moves are huge.
“I had to feel really positive to make this crux when tired by the earlier moves, and that’s where the mental part came in,” said Rands. “I stuck with it because the line jumped out to me the first day I saw it. I knew I would do it if I had the right conditions and felt good, and it was great to finally put it all together!”
Nutsa was the first V12 established at the Rocklands. It sits prominently at the front of the main area “Roadside,” which is the biggest and most developed sector at Rocklands. It is the sit-start into a previously established line called Sunset Arête (V9).Sources:www.lisarands.com/rocklands2.asp, www.thenorthface.com, Amy Goldhammer
Date of ascent: Saturday, July 12th, 2008