UPDATED: 4/14/11 - USA Climbing has issued yet another apology regarding the scoring at SCS Nationals.
According to the official press release: "Due to a problem with the computerized scoring used at the SCS 2011 Open Championships, the final rankings originally posted for the event were inaccurate. The results that were initially posted utilized an incorrect 'weighting' of the Qualification and Final rounds of the competition in calculating the final scores. As a result of the computer error, the Qualification Round Total Score was given greater weight than the Final Round Total Score."
Although USAC originally said they would not be able to alter the results (due to the men's scoring issue—see below), the correct "weighting" of the scores completely changed the men's and women's lead results. New results are as follows:
UPDATED: 4/7/11 - USA Climbing has issued an apology for a scoring error during Men's Qualifiers at Nationals. "USA Climbing has determined that a route-judging error occurred on Men's Qualifier Two," Keith Ferguson, CEO of USAC. This refers specifically to Carlo Traversi, who, due to his performance during qualifiers, should have placed second in finals, ahead of Matty Hong. While USAC states they cannot change the results at this point, Traversi still qualifies for the U.S. team and was offered the stipend for travel to Italy's World Cup this summer, second-place prize money, and a National Championship title.
Read Carlo's take regarding the mistake on his blog.
4/4/11 - USA Climbing's 2011 SCS Open National Championships transpired this past weekend, with Sasha DiGiulian and Magnus Midtbø taking top honors in lead and Dana Riddle and Alex Johnson (male) in speed.
Nine women and 12 men lined up in front of 450 spectators at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder on Saturday in the finals. Climbers competed in onsight format, with a 40-second preview preceding their route. There was no time limit once on the wall.
DiGiulian flashed both the qualifying routes and the finals route, securing her win. This just off a super-impressive trip to the Red River Gorge, where she redpointed two 5.14c's in a week.
Midtbø and DiGiulian were first-place finishers at last year's SCS as well.
For a detailed play-by-play, read Climbing contributor Chris Van Leuven's write-up here.
*Indicates a spot on the U.S. National team