The French climber Sébastien Bouin has completed the first ascent of Beyond Integral on the North Face of Pic Saint-Loup in Southern France, a local crag for him. The 27-year-old graded the route 5.15b/c. Beyond Integral is a 50-meter line bolted by Fedric Ferraro..
“I can't count how many times I went on the upper section trying to find a sequence. That's the FA privilege,” Bouin wrote on Instagram. “The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, drop knees, hills, tufas, crimps... all the ingredients for a perfect project.”
Bouin started climbing at age 12 with his mother. He took to the sport and found it natural to push himself as far as he could go. Fifteen years later, Bouin has climbed over 40 routes between 5.14d to 5.15b/c.
Last year, Bouin made the first ascent of La Rage d’Adam in the Verdon Gorge in France, which he also graded 5.15b/c. That year, he also made the second ascent of Adam Ondra’s Move (5.15b/c) in Flatanger, Norway, and the first ascent of Dream (5.15b) in Brar, Albania.
“About the grade,” Bouin wrote of Beyond Integral. “It's hard to have a clear mind and to pronounce [it] myself. I spent a lot of time finding the sequences. I think this route is on the same range as Move or La Rage d'Adam. That's why I propose 9b/+ [5.15b/c]. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece.”
To top off his time climbing at Pic Saint-Loup, Bouin also nabbed the first ascent of Terra Nova (5.14c), another line bolted by Fedric Ferraro.
Of projecting the hard lines so close to home, Bouin wrote:
This experience was special. At the beginning I thought I will not find the adventure I can find on a trip on a new area. Then, when I was involved in the process, I lived fully the adventure around my house. It was maybe more intense than a trip process.
This place means a lot to me. It's super cool to climb on the top of this beautiful mountain, dominating the valley. I rediscovered the Pic Saint-Loup sector as if it was a new crag. I enjoyed the walk to reach the top of that mountain. I rediscovered the warm up routes, and I was thinking of bolting new routes. There is always new adventures to live, even if you know the place really well.