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Samuel Johnson of Alaska and Freddie Wilkinson of New Hampshire made the second ascent of Mount Hunter’s Diamond Arête on the 20th anniversary of the Alaskan classic’s first ascent. The two young alpinists completed the route in 55 hours up and down, with two bivouacs, reaching the Kahiltna basecamp on May 1. “We climbed the line in pure alpine style, freeing the entire route at about AI4 M6,” Johnson reported. “Very nice granite and ice—challenging and interesting climbing!”
The Diamond Arête climbs a 2,000-foot rock wall on Mount Hunter’s East Face to reach a long, steep snow and ice ridge that leads directly to Hunter’s main 14,570-foot summit. Jack Tackle and Jim Donini made the first ascent in June 1985 in an epic 10-day round trip plagued by a dropped rope and several near misses with avalanches during the descent.