September 2009 – 278

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Donna Longo does the chickenhead boogie on  	Five Years After (5.8), Mosaic Rock, Tres Piedras,  	New Mexico.  	PHOTO: Andrew Burr /


GALLERYTimy Fairfield spelunks in the Famous Jemez; “ice men” for summer’s dog days; and a perfect Rio Grande splitter.

UTOPIAN VISTAS Rich culture. Friendly locals. High-desert weather. And hundreds of sleeper classics on pristine basalt, conglomerate, and granite, with blocs a-go-go — what’s not to love about Taos, New Mexico? By Matt Samet Photos by Andrew Burr

THE HOARY-HEADED FATHERS So much history and so many classic alpine moderates, it’s hard to know where to start: welcome to the Tetons, revealed in words and photos by two locals who know the Wyoming range inside-out. By Molly Loomis Photos by Gabe Rogel

JOHNNY ROCK: THE LIFE AND CLIMBS OF JOHN BACHAR John Bachar was an icon, a free-climbing and solo pioneer who steered our sport from the 1970s onward. When Bachar fell from the Dike Wall on July 5, later losing his life, our world came to a halt. Here, Climbing remembers this remarkable man. By Kristin Bjornsen Tribute by Rick Accomazzo

BORDER COUNTRY This May, two of America’s best alpinists — Jonny Copp and Micah Dash — and the rising filmmaker Wade Johnson perished in an avalanche in China. Here, friends take you inside the lives, climbs, and final expedition of this beloved trio. By Abbey Smith Tributes by Pete Takeda, Cedar Wright, and Sender Films

THE GNAR How to live happily ever after in The Gnar — or a climber and his daughter’s quest for meaning in the vertical universe. By Peter Brown Hoffmeister llustration by Mike Tea


CONTRIBUTORS Peter Brown Hoffmeister, Tucker Tyler, Audra Ord, and Dan Lubbers

EDITORIAL John Bachar: a life without compromise


JUST OUT Six bizzlin’ accessories for impending autumn

HOT FLASHES Valle de Paloma: the sweet new (everyman’s) stash in Cochamó, Chile; and Nalle Hukkataival’s epic sendfest

OFF THE WALL Abe Ferraro, climbing sculptor and vertical visionary; the mad game of crate stacking; Overheard (funny!)

PLAYERS Vic Zeilman: Joshua Tree’s social-trail savior

TEN THINGS . . . Southern Illinois

ROADKILL How Sonnie Trotter tried to beat Chris Sharma at his own game . . . and lost

OPEN BIVY Conrad Anker paints the dark side of gravity

SUSTAINED Access Fund’s promising new crag-purchase initiative

CLASSIC CLIMBS Sea Gypsy (II 5.9+ R), Acadia National Park, Maine: two pitches of diamond granite with a sublime ocean vista

TECH TIPS Trad: seven smart ways to speed switchovers at multipitch belays Training: tips and tricks for building bombproof ACLs

MILEAGEIsrael: an eye-opening limestone tour of the Holy Land

REVIEWS David Roberts’ new biography of Bradford Washburn; 19 climbers, six countries, no ropes — Chuck Fryberger’s new DVD Pure; and a fascinating DVD look at Jim Bridwell, the Yosemite Living Legend

ANCHORED Bob Gaines, J-Tree lifer and tireless first ascentionist

PERSPECTIVE Timy Fairfield: World Cup winner, professional climber, route-setter, cat walker, coach; Albuquerque, New Mexico

Trending on Climbing

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.