September 2013 - 318




Numbers Game: Everyone's been the victim of a sandbagged climb at some point. Here's a thorough look at the country's historically stiff crags.

Get Sandbagged: Don't shy away from the climbs that might be harder than they're rated. Instead, embrace the challenge on these seven routes.

Welcome to Paradise City: Idaho's City of Rocks is renowned for its myriad moderate sport climbs, but don't disregard its other gems: The City is stacked with fun, well-protected traditional routes.

Give Me Liberty: After weeks of obsession, long slogs, and shredded fingertips, two Yosemite veterans make a first ascent on Liberty Cap.


Breathe Easier: Arno Ilgner, author of The Rock Warrior's Way, imparts some wisdom for upping your mental game.

Tricams 101: They're lightweight, relatively inexpensive, and—best of all—the most versatile piece of pro on your rack. Here are a dozen tips for using this multi-talented hardware.

Tyrolean Traverse: Don't be intimidated by turbulent rapids guarding the crag. Navigate river crossings with this safe and easy method.

Health and Training

Strong Circuits: Don't have much time to train? No problem! Pro climber (and full-time teacher, dad, and husband) Rob Pizem shares how to get strong in just 45 minutes a session.

ROCK!: Rockfall is unpredictable and can lead to tragedy. Mitigate your risk by taking these steps—and learn how to deal in an emergency.


Your Lifeline: We took dozens of whippers on 10 climbing cords from Chamonix, France, to Joshua Tree, California. Here are our five favorites for the fall sending season.