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Siegrist Completes 5.14d in Idaho's Fins

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After sampling the majority of the established lines at The Fins, a limestone crag with soaring vertical and slightly overhanging, pocketed walls, Siegrist set his sights on bolting and climbing this ca. 45-meter-long pitch at the Discovery Wall. (He needed an 80-meter rope, which was barely long enough.)

“The cruxes are not at all straightforward, and I found myself breaking up each hold and each individual movement into its own problem to best find a method through the entire route,” Siegrist said in an email. “It required more work just to figure out the sequences than I usually expect. I thought the problem-solving method I used was somewhat algorithmic.”

After starting up Son of Discovery (5.13a), Algorithm ventures right into sharp, sequential, thin, and powerful climbing before the 5.14, 60-foot headwall.

“It’s a huge pitch,” Siegrist said. “There’s a lot of climbing variety on it, but the meat of the climbing is in the two cruxes: one mid-height and one way up there [at the top]. Both are very thin, with long moves and horrible feet. The upper crux is pumpy, thrilling, and amazing! The overall route is definitely sharp; the skin takes a beating.”

Date of ascent: September 8, 2012

Sources: Jonathan Siegrist, SEI Climbing