Jonathan Siegrist on To Bolt or Not To Be (5.14). Photo by Andy Mann
6/9/11 – Jonathan Siegrist has completed Just Do It (5.14c) at Smith Rock, Oregon. One of America’s hardest testpieces, Just Do It was established by French hardman J.B. Tribout in 1992 and considered the hardest route in America. (Tribout also established one of Smith’s other famous testpieces, To Bolt or Not To Be, the first 5.14 in America, in 1986.)
On Tuesday, Siegrist tweeted, “Just DID IT! What a fantastic climb… I love Smith. Blog and photos Wednesday. Psyched!” He arrived at Smith on June 1 and beelined straight for the Monkey Face, where Just Do It sits. “I finally got to revisit Monkey Face, where I pleasantly discovered my draws still danglin’,” he says on his blog.
Siegrist had a hugely successful trip to Smith last year, where he dispatched many of the area’s hardest routes, including To Bolt and onsights of at least eight 5.13s and harder. He checked out Just Do It then, saying, “Seeing Just Do It for the first time is something of a dream—this mythical route has no doubt fascinated the likes of many for nearly 20 years, and remains a testpiece to this day.”
Here’s how Siegrist describes the line: “Just Do It is a monster of a rock climb. It begins with an in-your-face delicate edging sequence that features some of the most finger-taxing crimps I’d experienced at Smith. After 5 bolts, the route allows a good shake before passing a strenuous section of blank rock via a powerful undercling, shallow mono and a crucial foot smear—this sequence brings you to the end of the lower section and the first set of anchors. Here, you relax in a great rest before entering into the upper purple rock, and the route’s crux. A few bolts of pumpy 5.12 climbing lead to a brief rest before a very bouldery crux—a few difficult lock-offs followed by a huge span, and a successive 10-move boulder problem takes you to the top.”
It took him six tries to finish the route, and he says, “Given the sheer amount of difficult and varied climbing on Just Do It, I’d say it felt 5.14c to me, albeit a soft one.”
Read more on his blog.
Date of ascent: June 6, 2011