11/18/10 – News link: Yesterday, Jonathan Siegrist finished up another project at the Red River Gorge, this time at the Gold Coast wall.Twenty-four Karats (5.14c) climbs on two standing projects on the wall—it starts on a bolted line in the middle of the cliffband, then weaves left to finish on another equipped project. Siegrist added a middle bolt and took four days to work it. “A series of varied, albeit poor, grips barely feature this section of wall,” he says on his blog.
The route starts with a difficult boulder problem—”a delicate deadpoint to a complete non-hold sloping crimp, immediately followed by a second deadpoint to a pad and a half clipping hold”—then follows a series of monos and small edges to the final bolt. “There is essentially no resting until you reach the final bolt and finish on some easy climbing to the anchors,” Siegrist says. “It’s savage and brilliant.”
For the grade, Siegrist suggests hard 5.14. “Finishing this climb was not easy, and even on redpoint I had to fight for it,” he says.
Siegrist may be on a mission to climb every single hard route at the Red—perhaps his 2009 trip to the Red didn’t yield enough onsights (16 5.12d and harder onsights, eight 5.14s; see a comprehensive ticklist here), as Siegrist quickly dispatched Angry Birds (5.13c) and Beer Belly (5.13a) first try at the Drive By crag the same day as Twenty-four Karats.
See photos of the route and read more about his Kentucky adventures at his blog.
Date of ascent: November 17, 2010