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Spain's Edu Marin Climbs Second 5.15

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Edu Marín climbing La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, Spain. Photo by Pete Donovan, courtesy of Desnivel.com.

Spain's Edu Marin Climbs Second 5.15

Edu Marín, one of Spain’s brightest young stars, has redpointed La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, his second 5.15 route. Three days later, Marín, 22, completed the first redpoint of a 5.14d link-up, Fabela pa la Enmienda in the Santa Linya cave. The new route was immediately repeated by Dani Andrada, who had bolted the line and redpointed the first pitch in December.

Marín said La Novena Enmienda felt easier than La Rambla, the 5.15a at Siurana, Spain, that he repeated in December 2006 for its second ascent, but partly because the Santa Linya route better suited his style. (See: climbing.com/news/hotflashes/marinlarambla.) The 50-meter La Novena Enmienda, established in 2005 by Andrada, consists of a 20-meter power-endurance 5.14c followed by 30 meters of 5.14b endurance climbing, with an uncomfortable kneebar rest in between. Chris Sharma and Patxi Usobiaga also have repeated the route.

Marín has onsighted up to 5.14a, including two 5.14a routes in December. In the summer of 2005, he and Toto Vales climbed a 1,000-meter free route in Norway in just 22 hours (including a bivouac); Marín onsighted the crux leads of the 23-pitch route, of which 11 pitches (up to 5.13b) were new, using only traditional pro.

Dates of Ascents: January 29, 2008 (La Novena Enmienda); February 1, 2008 (La Fabela pa la Enmienda)

Sources:Desnivel.com, 8a.nu, Daniandrada.blogspot.com, American Alpine Journal

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