Spannuth Claims Second Ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d) - Climbing Magazine

Spannuth Claims Second Ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d)


2/25/13 – Ben Spannuth has made the second ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d) in Arrow Canyon, Nevada.

It was almost exactly one year ago that Jonathan Siegrist first climbed this impressive 100-foot, arching line. The route starts with a tough boulder problem on 20-degree-overhanging terrain, and then moves up relatively moderate climbing before firing into two difficult boulder problems using mono pockets, a powerful gaston, and long deadpoint. The climb steepens to a 45-degree angle and continues into the last boulder problem: a series of underclings ending with a "mono-stack" and a deadpoint to an edge. The climb finishes on mid-5.12 terrain and "several feet of victory jugs," says Spannuth. (Click here to watch Siegrist's ascent of Le Rêve).

After two weeks in Arrow Canyon and countless attempts, Spannuth finally ticked the route. "It took me a long time to get through the bottom crux," says Spannuth. "My first time through the bottom boulder [problem], I fell on the second-to-last hard move from the top and did it in one fall, so I knew I could do the route soon. I was definitely stoked to do the route but mostly to have made it through the bottom boulder!"

Spannuth now has his eye on another unrepeated climb, Joe Kinder's Tiger Blood (5.14c) at the Blank Wall in southern Utah, as well as scouting out new lines to bolt in the area.

Date of ascent: February 19, 2013

Sources: Ben Spannuth, Jonathan Siegrist