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The 1,000-meter Schmid Route on the north face of the Matterhorn. Ueli Steck climbed it in 1 hour 56 minutes. Video still from Sf.tv.
The Swiss climber Ueli Steck has climbed the north face of the Matterhorn by the Schmid Route in 1 hour 56 minutes. The ascent comes less than three weeks after Steck soloed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours 21 minutes, via the Colton-MacIntyre Route, and less than a year after he climbed the classic route on the north face of the Eiger in 2 hours 47 minutes.
The Schmid Route (1,000 meters, ED1), originally climbed in 1931, was the first line on the north face of Switzerland’s iconic mountain.
More details about Steck’s climb will be provided as soon as they are available. A Swiss television report on the climb (in German), complete with remarkable helicopter footage, can be viewed here.
PlanetMountain.com has published a good interview with Steck covering his “trilogy” of Alpine speed ascents.
Date of Ascent: January 13, 2009