The Eiger Free and Solo

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Robert Jasper leading during the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger. Photo by Frank Kretschmann / courtesy of

The Eiger Free and Solo

News Link: Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli completed the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger in late August. The 1969 Japanese ascent forced a route up the steepest part of the limestone wall, with the aid of about 250 bolts. Jasper and Schäli free-climbed the 1,800-meter route at 5.13b M5 over four days, with serious danger from rock fall and poor protection. Read Jasper’s account and see more photos here.

Also in August, the Spanish climber Jordi Tosas free-soloed Le Chant du Cygne (900m, 7a/5.11d, Anker-Piola, 1992) on the far right side of the north face. Tosas was accompanied by a photographer on the first pitch, but was alone thereafter. Click here for photos and an interview with Tosas (in Spanish).

Dates of Ascents: August 2009

Sources: Robert Jasper,,

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