The Nose Sees a New Female Speed Record


6/25/12 - Another Nose speed record was broken in Yosemite Valley recently by Quinn Brett and Jes Meiris. The pair set a new female speed record on El Capitan June 11 with a time of 10 hours, 19 minutes.

Brett and Meiris used a combination aid and free climbing to set the new record. When they weren't simul-climbing pitches up to 5.9, they short-fixed ropes at anchors to keep both climbers moving: one leading on self belay, the other jumaring.

The two women had only been up the Nose once. “There was no guarantee that we would, or even could, break the record," says Meiris."But we were willing to jump in and go for it anyway."

In an effort to make their adventure even bigger, Brett and Meiris created a fundraiser for  SOS Outreach International, a nonprofit based in Avon, Colorado, that empowers youth through outdoor education and adventure (

“Our hope is to inspire others who are pushing the limits of the sport to generate fundraising efforts and make their ascents count towards local or global progression, whether it be social, environmental, or educational,” said Mieris.

The last female record on the Nose was set in 2011 by Libby Sauter and Chantal Astorga at 10 hours, 40 minutes. Previous record holders have been Heidi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum in 2004 at 12:15, and Vera Wong and Abby Watkins in 1996 at 16:30. The first female team to climb the Nose in a day was Sue McDevitt and Nancy Feagin in 1992, at 17:40.

Sources: Jes Meiris, Quinn Brett,

Date of ascent: June 11, 2012