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The Spray – VOLUME 5 – MARCH, 2007

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Self Portrait by David Hull



A Timed self-portrait on Stately Pleasure Dome.David hung the camera from a bolt and put the timer on for 10 seconds (so he could get into the frame). Somewhere halfway up Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California.

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Pose to the Pros


Ethan PringleMy favorite would have to be the east coast of Mallorca where all the deep water soloing is. Second would have to be J-Tree, Buttermilks country, or Hueco Tanks. A close third would have to be Yosemite, Lost Rocks, or the Red or Ceüse. That’s a tough one, Dan. I mean, crags are like your favorite restaurants, they’re all the best, none are better than the other, just different. Just depends on what your psyched on at the moment, and at the moment, I’m really psyched to check out the Ozarks, even though I’ve never been there.

Mike AndersonI’m kinda colloquial, having never climbed outside North America, but to me the best crag is by far Smith Rock. It’s got every type of climbing imaginable, from pissed-off boulder problems to terrifying big walls. The crag is truly climbable year-round and it’s well-manicured; complete with an enviro-friendly composting shitter!

“It was a good day, two trips up the SE Buttress of Cathedral in the AM, and three or four routes on Stately Pleasure dome in the PM, all solo, followed by a dip in the invigorating Tenaya Lake on a beautiful, warm, blue sky day… it doesn’t get much better. Shown here is one from a bit lower on the route.” Self Portrait by David Hull


Ivan GreeneI would have to say Fontainebleau! Oh, for so many reasons …

Tyler LandmanBrione, so much rock and every bit of it is amazing. Perfect glacier river washed granite, and amazing lines and streaks and holds. Basically, it’s perfect.

Barbara RaudnerFor me the best crag in the world is Siurana, Spain.

Justin HawkinsThe best crag I’ve been to would have to be Ceüse, France.

Will GaddAnywhere but Yosemite? Nice rock, but a great crag isn’t just about the stone. In fact, the stone is often secondary to the place. I’d make an argument that the best crag is always the next new one you’re going to climb at. Crags are like relationships — the next one is for sure going to work out better than the last one. Better features, amenities, less history, not so sharp, etc. Each crag is perhaps less about the crag than where we are in life; when I was younger I needed Rifle for its aggressive climbing, then I needed the desert for its space and sand, then the Cirque of the Unclimbables for its remote and powerful vibe. Each of these crags was perfect for me at the time, but I wouldn’t repeat those eras today (or the relationships that went with them, and let’s just forget the whole Lycra scene at Smith, too). Now, I’m looking more for vast vertical on this wall in Nepal. It’s gonna be the best trip ever!

Sonnie TrotterI have no idea, but my girlfriend told me that she loves Revelstoke and a crag called Spill Machine. I am leaving for Australia soon, so maybe the Taipan Wall will change my perception. If I had to give you something I would say that Lion’s Head Ontario is my fav. It’s like adventure sport climbing and hosts some the best stone I have ever seen.

Cody RothMisja Pec … Rad limestone, cheep beer, and ocean!

Charles FrybergerMy favorite is Rocklands. Ah yeah.

Rob PizemThe best crag in the world for me has more than just free climbing. It has a good vibe, beauty, convience, great camping, and world class rock climbing. There are few places that stand out in my book and provide all of these necessities but only one that keeps pulling me back year after year after year. For sport climbing, I would have to choose Rifle, Co. I have spent hundreds of days there pathetic as that may sound and I still get excited each and everytime I enter the canyon, get out of the car, breath the mountain fresh air (except after the biannual cattle drives), listen to the river babble, gaze at the blue-grey streaked overhanging walls and wander through the

thick underbrush to the base of the cliffs. Ahh Rifle! For traditional climbing, the requirements are the same and for me, the adventure and splitter bigwalls of Zion make me nervous, scared, and focus more than anywhere else. Heading into such a deep and narrow canyon gets the blood pumping knowing that you will soon be hundreds of meters up. Knowing that you can experience solitude and splitter cracks is also a huge plus. Camping in the desert is always a blast even if you get sand in your sleeping bag and I love the fact that it really is an untamed beast.

For bouldering, I would have say that the place where I felt like a kid in a candy store was just outside Paris at Font. Hundreds of problems, all kinds, all shapes, and all forms. Heaven. For Aid climbing, oh wait, that isn’t free climbing.