Three More Daks Testpieces


The superb conditions that draped the Adirondacks with ice earlier this year are mostly gone, but unusually thick ice continues to cover the popular walls above Chapel Pond. In recent weeks, three new testpieces have been climbed left of the crag's most prominent hard routes, Power Play and Artificial Gravity.Marylander Chris Thomas led the first ascent of Forest Nymphs, which links dry tooling to a prominent "torpedo" of ice left of Artificial Gravity's crux. Left of this new route, Will Gadd and Will Mayo found the Way of Two Wills, with rock moves and three tiers of ice through an overhanging headwall. On the left side of the wall, Chris Thomas, Ian Boyer, Will Mayo and Matt Horner freed an aid climb called Highway Robbers, with an extremely thin first-pitch runnel leading to two pitches of rock and a spectacular final dagger. All of the routes check in at M7 to M8.