Toni Lamprecht Climbs New 5.15 at Kochel

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German strongman Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that he’s graded “up in the French 9th grade”; i.e., mid-5.15. Lamprecht named his new route after a fierce reef break on Maui, called “Jaws” or “Pe’ahi”. He also recently snatched the first ascent of the long-standing, 15-year open project, Katze auf dem heißen Blechdach. The route, which name translates to Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, features a tricky double-dyno finish that he graded 8c or 5.14b.

Below is the email that Lamprect sent us about his new climb Jaws 11:

[Kochel] is the home to some new-school routes that feature jump-moves and frequent compression/ bouldering sections, where many specific body and weather conditions must concurrently occur. Although the project is not exactly new (I placed the bolts about 15 years ago and played around on the moves once in a while) I only started to attempt it more seriously in autumn 2008. After a successful bouldering season last winter I was able to link all the sections in the beginning of May after working the route for a couple of weeks.

The route begins with a V9/10 boulder jump followed by a hard section to the lip of a fish-mouth-looking rock formation that produces a descent rest. The second part of the route is a hard boulder-sequence, about V11, that involves a lot of body-tension and sloper-power moves.

Jaws 11 is a strong container for the hardest route I have climbed at Kochel with grading potential up in the French 9th grade. Future will show what other climbers will think about the exact grade.

In September 2008 at Kochel Lamprecht redpointed a 150-foot “monster route” that might be as hard as 5.15a called The Devil, You and Me (XI/5.14+).

Date of Ascent: Friday, May 8, 2009

Sources: Toni Lamprecht

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