On November 11, Paul Robinson made a quick ascent of the granite testpiece Circadian Rhythm (V13/14), in Poudre Canyon, near Rustic, Colorado. Although fighting a 72-hour illness, Robinson explains, "I was just lying around all day, because I had a fever ... some wacked-out bug I got on Friday. My lockoff strength was horrible. I was psyched, though, because the weather was so perfect to do it. I rested for three hours, then did it just when the temps got really cold."
This line, first climbed by David Graham on October 25, 2001, makes difficult, tension-dependent movement on small holds, finishing with a dyno to a big sloper at the lip of the 10-foot boulder. "When you look at it you're, like, 'All the holds are there,' but moving between holds is how it's hard," says Robinson. "Circadian Rhythm's technical, yet really aggressive climbing."
Robinson was joined by friend Daniel Woods, the fourth climber to figure out the resistance problem (two years ago) -- Woods' first of the grade. Woods tried to repeat the Poudre testpiece, but was unable. Robinson suggests that "if this is V13, then every other V13 I've done in Colorado needs to be downgraded." And Robinson's done his fair share of V13s. "This problem's stood up to some strong climbers ... it seems solid for the grade. It's the hardest thing I've done."
Robinson's ascent follows another wicked performance at the Triple Crown Bouldering event in the Southeast. After winning the Hound Ears event on October 7, Robinson won the Horse Pens 40 (HP40) competition on November 4, barely squeezing by surprise-entry Tony Lamiche and pocketing $1,200 in prize money, with a potential $1,600 looming on the horizon if he wins at the Stone Fort (formerly known as Little Rock City), Tennessee's competition (December 2).
"I found out Tony was going to be there, and I was, like, Oh, Crap ... Tony Lamiche ... I have to step it up so much," says Robinson. "I was nervous all day, and part of the way through, four of my tips were bleeding. I couldn't give up, though, because they take the top 10 problems sent."
Here's a look at Robinson's top 10 sends at HP40:
Slider SDS V11 (repeat)Ghetto Superstar V9/10 (repeat)No Tranquility V9/10 (repeat)The Floridian V10*Cadillac Thrills V9/10*Landslide V9*Stingray V9*Five-0 V9*Wrist Distensia V9*God Module V11*
*sent for the first time
Date of Ascent: November 11, 2006
Source: Paul Robinson; Steve Woods, woodsfamilyclimbs.com