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UIAA Suspends Rope Test

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

The UIAA, the international federation of alpine clubs, has suspended certification of ropes under its “sharp edge” test, after problems surfaced at its approved testing laboratories. The UIAA Safety Standard 108 measured dynamic ropes’ resistance to cutting over an edge under the force of a simulated fall. But discrepancies were found in test results for the same rope at different laboratories. Testing of ropes against this safety standard stopped as of July 1. Ropes already certified “Sharp Edge Resistant” will retain that status until Dec. 31, 2005, after which they can no longer be marketed this way. The UIAA is working on a new plan for rope inspections and will post updates on its web site: www.uiaa.ch/index.aspx.

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.