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I’m one of those hoary, safety-freak sport climbers who use locking biners at key clips and on anchor draws — I’ve seen too many unpredictables go south. Always welcome, then, is a full-duty, featherweight screw-gate like the MAD ROCK ULTRA-TECH SCREW ($7.95, madrockclimbing.com). 1.98oz of forged I-beam performance, the Ultra-Tech — also available in a $9.95 HMS version, great for belaying — has an ample gate opening (0.7 inches) and tests to 25kN/9kN/9kN. The “no snag” gate was a dream on my trad draws, and I rocked the biner for cragging, heavy-duty new-route toproping, etc.

—Matt Samet