USA CLIMBING Level 2 Routesetting Clinic – April 28 – 29th, 2008

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In 2008, we ran the first USA Climbing Level 2 Routesetting Clinic at the Boulder Rock Club, scheduled just prior to the popular Climbing Wall Association Summit. The clinic was very successful and a good step for the development of USA Climbing and the professional growth of routesetters. I’m happy to announce – We’re doing it again! On April 28th and 29th, I will be instructing this Level 2 clinic with top routesetter Kevin Branford assisting, and internationally certified e-Grips Pro Setting Team members Mike Moelter and Kynan Waggoner will join us as forerunners, to provide some extra expert tips. We’re psyched to have multiple hold sponsors of the clinic again, and believe this will prove to be another good move forward in the progression of the USA Climbing Clinic and Certification Program and a great opportunity for setters looking to advance their skills and pursuit of routesetting for USA Climbing competitions. This year we have decided to have a simple application process, rather than make the clinic first-come first-served, as we want to ensure the most qualified and experienced setters are encouraged to advance. Participants who successfully complete testing in the clinic will be certified at Level 2, and endorsed to set at different levels for USAC events, depending on their performance in each discipline. For an application for the clinic or more information on the USAC Routesetting Clinic and Certification program, contact me at This announcement is also posted on the site and you can download an application there as well. Climbing Wall Association 3rd Annual Summit – April 30th – May 3rd, 2009 On Thursday, April 30th, the 3rd annual Climbing Wall Summit itself will officially begin, with half and full day pre-symposium workshops. I will personally be instructing a half-day workshop called “Building Movement: Routesetting for Climbing Skill Development,” and will be co-presenting Summit workshops on Routesetting and Climbing Gym Landing Surfaces. There are incredibly diverse offerings from other climbing professionals scheduled as well. For more information specifically regarding the Summit, including details about workshops and presenters, and how to register, go to news…USAC’s Sport Climbing Series kicked off recently and e-Grips is a proud sponsor of the season this year, providing a specialty set of holds, the Retro Tribal Crimps, for each host gym. This is a 10 year anniversary for e-Grips, so expect to see some amazing new Signature Setter Sets to be released this summer as well. Elsewhere in the GTHI family of brands, Trango is offering 5% off any purchase of a large variety of items in the complete line, including Smooth, Classic, and Superfly carabiners, junior harnesses, Flashed pads, and more. Contact me for more info. Teknik recently added the newest sets to its website, the Talons and the Mini Tites. So iLL’s new sets include the Cryptochild shapes Implants and the Cough, and they have also added a cool update to their website showing side views of all sets – check it out at around the corner…The Teva Games is coming up in early summer, and the IFSC Bouldering World Cup is coming back to the states again! I am excited to be one of the routesetters for this event, along with my good friends and e-Grips Team Setters Kynan Waggoner and Jamie Emerson. Last years competition had some of the best climbers in the world, from 4 continents, and it was estimated that over 7,000 spectators watched the event in Vail. We hope to make this year even better! Soon to follow after that is the USAC Sport Climbing Series Youth Nationals, to be held this year at Momentum Climbing Gym, in Salt Lake City.

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.