USA CLIMBING Level 2 Routesetting Clinic – April 29 – 30th, 2008


Hello to all climbing wall enthusiasts, routesetters, and climbing friends! Exciting springtime news in the indoor climbing world – USA Climbing Routesetting Clinic, CWA Summit, and new stuff from e-Grips, So iLL, Trango, Flashed, and PMI – check it out! This spring, a little over a month away, one of the country’s premier indoor climbing institutions, the Boulder Rock Club, will be host to USA Climbing’s first higher level competition routesetting clinic in years! On April 29th and 30th, I will be instructing this Level 2 clinic with another experienced USAC Routesetter, Mike Helt, who also happens to run the excellent website, and top routesetters Mike Moelter and Kynan Waggoner will join us as forerunners and to provide some extra expert tips! We’re psyched to have e-Grips, So iLL, Teknik, Franklin, Climb It, and Contact holds pitching in as sponsors of the clinic! For more information on the USAC Routesetting program, and further details regarding the clinic itself, including format and registration info, and the new site, see below.* There are only 6 spots left available so be in touch if you are interested!

Climbing Wall Association 2nd Annual Summit – May 1 – 4th, 2008 The goal was to schedule this event conveniently in advance of the Climbing Wall Association’s 2nd Annual Climbing Wall Summit, and so we hope to see participants planning to attend both! On Thursday, May 1st, the Climbing Wall Summit itself will officially begin, with half and full day pre-symposium workshops. I will personally be instructing a half-day workshop on “Training Your Routesetters,” and there are diverse offerings from other climbing professionals scheduled. For more information specifically regarding the Summit, including details about workshops and presenters, and how to register, please go to

Springtime Newness from top Climbing brands…e-Grips is releasing some formerly exclusive First Dibs shapes, including the Virus Mini-Jugs, Geopinches, Lunar Rounders, and numerous edge and pinch sets from new themes like Peabody Flakes and Ryan Spence’s new turtle shell aesthetic – C-Turtles. Get e-Grips enlightened! Flashed is upping the ante again – this time with the Samurai, a refined, more affordable version of the innovative Ronin, with F.A.T. cell technology, and also reinvigorating the super popular Ninja with a new color scheme. PMI’s 10.6mm Wall Rope continues to be hugely successful at climbing walls across the country, as a long-lasting rope with a super thick sheath, great stretch for both top rope and lead, and a new color option called Ruby. If you haven’t yet checked out the 60m lead ropes for outdoor climbing or your retail shop, click here!So iLL has remolded some classic shapes like the Head Cold, Bug Bite, Eczema, and Cavity; has over a dozen new lines coming into fruition soon, and continues to introduce new wacky real life shapes like the upcoming Stomach and On Call – look out for them in new So iLL ads!Trango has recently come out with a super sleek new carabiner called the Smooth. The Smooth has been developed in the straight, bent, wire gate, and screw-lock lines. *For a few years now, myself and other dedicated individuals within USA Climbing have been working to further the professional development of routesetting in the country. The USAC Routesetting Committee has rejuvenated a structured clinic and certification program, and I have been proud to help in developing the curriculum for, and to personally instruct a number of Level 1 clinics at excellent climbing facilities throughout the US this past year. The clinics have seen a great degree of enthusiasm from new and experienced setters who have come together to learn and collaborate, and also proved to be an excellent forum for networking in the indoor climbing and competition world. This Level 2 Clinic will focus on on-sight specific competition routesetting, with one day spent covering bouldering and the second spent working on roped routes. The goals include providing instruction and direction for effective competition routesetting and forerunning, and also to provide a strong overview of USA Climbing structured competition formats, judging, and scoring at the Regional, Divisional, and National Levels. Please contact me directly at with questions regarding the Level 2 clinic and to register in advance. The Clinic is $300 for the full two-days, 8am – 5pm, April 29th and 30th. We are limiting participation to 10 people, and those who have a current Level 1 Certification, and/or have experience setting for ABS or SCS Regional, Divisional, or National Competitions will take precedence. A current USAC Routesetter Membership ($39) is also mandatory, which you can register for at This winter, we also launched, which is a resource and information guide for those interested in the USAC Routesetting program, climbing walls interested in hosting clinics, and . On behalf of the USAC Route Setting Committee, I am excited to see the growth in interest and development of routesetting continue, and for all of us to advance our general knowledge, routesetting tradecraft, and professionalism in the climbing industry.