Vampire Spires Get First Free Route


Pat Goodman and Hank Jones climbed the first all-free route in the Vampire Spires, a remote area of granite towers about 25 miles from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. Taking advantage of the only two days of clear weather in a 25-day visit to the area, the two climbed 13 pitches on the South Face of the Fortress to create You Enjoy Myself (V 5.12). Goodman described the route as a “granite Moonlight Buttress,” referring to the classic splitter-crack route in Zion National Park.Goodman visited the Vampire Spires in 1999 with Nan Darkis and Brad Jackson and established two new routes with some aid. However, he said, “We didn’t have the guns for the steep nature of the routes, so I promised myself a return trip when I felt stronger. The Vamps are the next Cirque,” he added. “There’s lots of new free-route potential.” See Climbing No.153 for a feature article on the Vampire Spires.Buy Back Issue No 153