Women Crushing 5.14s in Spain
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3/9/12 – It’s been a big week for the ladies climbing in Spain. French climber Alizée Dufraisse repeated El Rastro (5.14c) in Siurana this week, a route established by Dani Andrada in the El Pati sector. El Rastro shares the same line as its harder neighbor, La Rambla, for three-quarters of the way, then ducks left to a 5.13d finish.In December, Dufraisse redpointed her first 5.14c with Patinoso, then followed up with an ascent of La Reina Mora (5.14c/d) a month later. (La Reina Mora is to the right of La Rambla.) Watch the video of Dufraisse on Patinosohere.
She’s currently attempting another line on the wall, Broadway (5.14c/d); she also mentioned on her blog that she’s gotten on Era Bella (5.14d) as well. Her main goal remains La Rambla, however. She will be in Siurana until mid-April. See her blog for photos.
The same day, fellow French climber Caroline Ciavaldini gave herself a birthday present with a redpoint of the popular 130-foot Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana—just on the heels of Nina Caprez and Daila Ojeda’s ascents of the line. Ciavaldini’s boyfriend, James Pearson, reports on the send: “She clipped the belay on her second try of the day, third redpoint in total, with another inspirational display of grit and determination—there was no way she was letting go of the final tricky tufa.”
Just last week, Ciavaldini climbed Fish Eye (5.14b), also at Oliana. On her blog (translated), she said she “spotted it last year. I found it long, but possible. Actually, it was my project for this month. Fish Eye is a pure 5.14b of endurance, with some hard moves and no big rests. I threw myself into my first run, to work my arms, but after a very good and long fight, I found myself on the top, clipped into the chains!”
Dates of ascents: March 5, 2012
Sources: 8a.nu, jpclimbing.com, carolineciavaldini.com