Dave Turner, 25, from Sacramento, California, established and attempted a variety of routes in the mountains outside of Huaraz, Peru in June and July.
Turner first climbed a solo first ascent of the east face of La Esphinge (1,700-foot wall topping out at 17,388 feet), via Inferno (VI 5.10b A3, seven "holes" [used for bolts, hooks, rivet, when aiding/climbing gets difficult]), taking seven days to complete the route. He believes this line has the fewest holes of any route on the wall. Next he climbed a probable new line on Toccilaraju (TD-, 19,790 feet), staying left of the normal West Face route with partner, Evan Sloan, of Boulder, CO. (Note: TD- is from the French alpine rating system, and stands for Très Difficile, or very difficult minus; TD+ stands for Très Difficile Plus.) The team climbed seven long pitches of steep ice and snow, including fifteen feet of “snice” [a combo of both ice and snow]to get out of the bergschrund. The team then joined the Northwest Ridge, which they followed for 450 feet to the summit. The climb was completed in a 24-hour push from basecamp to basecamp.
Turner next soloed Huandoy Sur (20,210feet) traveling round trip in 28 hours. The route involved 1500 feet of steep ice/snow/mixed terrain with a rating of TD+. After reaching the easier upper Southwest Buttress, en route to the summit, a sudden large storm thwarted his summit bid whereupon he descended with no rope or bivi gear. He was back to basecamp that night to top his trip off with an “early chicken dinner.”
Next Turner ran the Huayhuash Trek in four self-supported days; most parties take 12-14 requiring the assistance of mules and guides.
Turner is nearing the end of his trip in Huaraz. What’s next for Dave after Peru? “I am coming back to California in a few weeks until I can think of another adventure to go on, maybe The Valley [where he’s an active big wall soloist] for a few days, but not for long.”Comment on this story