Zozobra Niagra Glen's Hardest

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

Zozobra Niagra Glen's Hardest

At Niagra Glen, native NY state hitman, 25-year-old Ian Irving, established arguably the hardest line, in Zozobra (V12), on April 30. “This isn’t a bullshit line,” says Irving. “I remember seeing it when I first started climbing … I was just blown away. I worked it over three months, seven or eight attempts a day, three weekends a month, and got so close, but it’s a hard, mental line. At the crux — 18 feet up a 45-degree wall — you look right and see rocks and sticks down a 20-foot gully you’re gonna fall in if you swing out. I was scared out of my mind when I did it.”

Irving, a full-time concrete worker and mason, has recently sent a slew of hard problems, including a V11 flash of Get Awesome, a line established by Ivan Greene in the ‘Gunks.

Comment on this story

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.