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What’s the most fun you’ve ever had on a route?
“I had a rollicking time in 2004 when I climbed the Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos with my friend, Duncan Burke. The weather was ideal, and we felt comfortable simul-climbing most of the route. We flew up it much faster than I expected (roughly 7 hours—a far cry from any speed record but not too bad for something like 23 guidebook pitches), so we then climbed the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire and the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire as bonus routes. We laughed the entire day, as I recall.”
“Maybe climbing Pufigu, a new route that I put up in the Sayan Mountains of Siberia with Roxanna Brock. It had it all: hysterical laughter, tears, a freezing cold bivy in the perfect bivy cave in a rain storm, singing classic ’80s tunes on ledges, and success.”
“I think climbing the Moonlight Buttress with a small speaker attached to my harness blaring the Daft Punk Live album was one I remember as pure type-one fun. I felt like I was floating up the wall with those beats. “
“Oh man! I’ve really had a lot of fun climbing in my life! Too many fun routes just to pick one, but if I had to I’d say Tague Your Time in the Black Canyon with Jesse Huey. It was my first time climbing in the canyon and we wanted to fully enjoy the route, so we rapped down and stashed food and beers on a huge bivy ledge and climbed it in two days. We even brought a whole watermelon and enjoyed it after our first day climbing. “
“Climbing with my daughter, from Nepal to Peru to Africa. Nothing better than climbing with your daughter/child.”
“Big-walling with Katie Lambert on Father Time in Yosemite last year. It was six days of amazing climbing and unadulterated dirty humor. “
“Probably just soloing around here in Squamish in the evening light on splitters I’ve climbed a thousand times before. Never gets old.”
“I don’t generally have fun while climbing. The fun comes over beers afterwards.”
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