PerspectiveIn-depth interviews with the climbing world's greatest players.
Stephanie ForteSport climber, writer, entrepreneur, MMA promoter; Las Vegas, Nevada - Every few years, Stephanie Forte, 44, whips herself into top shape and climbs a flurry of hard 5.13s. She capped off one fitness peak in 1999 by sending Soul Train, then called 5.14a, at Mt. Charleston, Nevada, and sent her most recent 5.13d in Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge just last year. A New Jersey girl with a sharp wit, a publicist’s poise, and fierce athleticism on the rock, Forte has written for Climbing many times and has had her hands on all kinds of climbing-related events and causes.Brittany Anne GriffithPro athlete, caterer, writer, gardener, homemaker, badass adventure climber; Salt Lake City - Imagine a committed lifer in adventure rock climbing, and “The BAG,” 42, is the living definition. She’s led vertical miles of Indian Creek and Yosemite splitters, fiddled RPs on dicey 5.11s in Eldo, whipped on TCUs at the New—climbed everywhere, basically: in 43 countries and counting, on six continents. Crusty but lovable, a racounteur par excellence, Brittany Griffith is a fixture at climbing festivals, where she’ll work an early morning clinic, man a booth all day, then cook for a party of 50.Sam EliasPro climber, gear tester, ex-ski racer; Boulder, Colorado - Five years ago, Sam Elias, now 29, left a well-paying job in Detroit, for Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. He was barely a climber. That season, between pizza shifts at Miguel’s, Elias sent 5.12. The next season, 5.13. Since then, after a few summers in Rifle, Colorado, Elias has ticked Tom Foolery (5.14b), The Crew and Girl Talk (5.14c), and his own Living the Dream (5.14a/b). Malcolm DalyEntrepreneur, amputee, chef, visionary; Boulder, Colorado - Malcolm Daly, 55, feeds his soul by feeding his friends—mole, paella, margs; sharing food is his favorite way to develop the sense of community he thrives on. Ever since two near-death experiences rocked his world in 1999 and 2004, Daly has gregariously shared his life and stories with others. These days, the founder of Great Trango Holdings and former avid first-ascensionist still designs equipment as a consultant, but more often than not you will find him publicizing the nonprofit he now directs—Paradox Sports—from behind the grill at climbing events, where he makes a mean pancake.Corey RichAdventure photographer, Aurora Photos partner; South Lake Tahoe, California - Corey Rich's storytelling passion and keen eye—and a dose of good luck—have turned him into one of the most successful photographers in the outdoor industry. As a partner of the prolific Aurora stock agency, his business skill and savvy are almost as impressive as his imagery. Rich, 35, has a down-to-earth persona that belies his success. He has genuine psych for new and upcoming photographers, and his sage, no-bullshit advice breathes fresh life into a rugged industry. Players: Aaron HueyAaron Huey, author of the highly eccentric guidebook to the limestone of Ten Sleep, Wyoming, is more than a climbing author and photographer. As a photojournalist, he’s shot everywhere from Yemen to the Democratic Republic of Georgia. Huey broke onto the big-time photography scene in 2002 when he walked more than 3,000 miles across America with his dog, Cosmo, and had a photo essay published in Smithsonian. Now he’s regularly published in such preeminent magazines as Harper’s (where he’s a contributing editor), National Geographic, and The New Yorker. Ian CaldwellSmith Rock steward, 5.14 collector, obsessive-compulsive; Redmond, Oregon - Ian Caldwell, 41, donates so much time and energy to the place he loves most, locals call him the “Mayor of Smith Rock.” His allegiance to Oregon’s best-known climbing area started in 1991, during a university outing. One visit turned Caldwell into a committed climber. His most recent claim to fame is redpointing all the 5.14a routes in the park. He can be found at Smith most weekends, snow or shine, climbing with his wife, Darryn, or refurbishing bolts and trails. Players: Angela HawseAs a climbing guide, certification by the IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) is the ultimate milestone: Hopefuls must take extensive courses and pass arduous tests in three disciplines—rock climbing, alpine climbing, and ski mountaineering—over the course of five to 10 years. Angela Hawse is one of only seven women in the U.S. to achieve this status—she completed her first American Mountain Guides Association exam in 2005, second in 2008, and final exam in April 2010. Eric ZschiescheArtist, Boulderer, Barefoot Climber; Ogden, Utah - In the 1994 book Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to American Bouldering, John Sherman called Eric Zschiesche, 50, one of America’s top boulderers—and one of climbing’s most colorful characters. From teenage solos at Moore’s Wall, North Carolina (before ropes or protection were even in his lexicon), to climbing El Capitan a year and a half later, to soloing the bottom girders of the New River Gorge Bridge, to barefoot 5.13s at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin...Players: Jimmie RedoA small mob of kids swarms coach Jimmie Redo under the campus board at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder. It’s Monday night, and Redo’s preparing the team for upcoming bouldering nationals. You might not recognize him, but Redo (pronounced Ree-dough) has helped shape the climbing world for nearly 30 years. In the early 1980s, this quintessential California boy got his start in Yosemite, leading hard traditional cracks and scary slabs alongside legends like Ron Kauk.Dean FidelmanDean Fidelman, 54, grew up in L.A., learned to climb at age 15, and in the 1970s became a member—and the unofficial team photographer—of the Stonemasters. His black-and-white imagery of Bachar, Hill, Long, Sorenson, Yablonski, and the rest of that hardcore SoCal group might be the most celebrated climbing action-portraiture ever done. (See The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies, by John Long.)Players: Brian Runnells (aka The Climbing Narc)The fruits of obsession - With user-friendly, DIY websites, anyone can run a climbing blog. But few update their blogs several times daily—and attract more than 2,500 unique visitors per day. Brian Runnells, aka the Climbing Narcissist, is one of those few. The Wisconsin native created Climbingnarc.com about four years ago, and he now spends 10 to 20 hours a week posting competition results, news of hard ascents around the world, videos, and debates over controversial topics,Players: Anthony LoveIf you've ever climbed in Boone, North Carolina, you’ve likely seen Anthony Love crushing. He’s established problems like Preferential Treatment (V10, Blowing Rock Boulders) and climbed classic Boone routes like Pigs in Zen (5.13a, The Dump). More than just a Southern hard man, though, A-Love, as he’s commonly known, spends at least 20 hours a week as the president of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), a position he’s held for three years.Royal RobbinsRoyal Robbins, 75, owned Yosemite’s big walls in the 1960s, and his list of FAs is longer than this page. He was the first to solo El Capitan, was a pioneering free climber, was instrumental in promoting clean climbing during the piton era, wrote soulful stories and superb instructional books (and has just published the first volume of an autobiography through Pink Moment Press), started a clothing company, and had an entire second adventure-sports career in extreme kayaking.Players: Matt Maddaloni Friends call him “the Matt scientist.” Climber Matt Maddaloni works as the lead construction rigger and mechanical designer for Ziptrek Ecotours, a company that specializes in zipline-based eco-adventures. The 32-year-old Victoria, BC, native and self-taught engineer also founded a company that produces the Sea to Sky Cable Cam, a remote-controlled robotic cable cam that allows smooth aerial views for filmmaking.
Kurt Albert (1/24/1954 - 9/28/2010)In 1975, Kurt Albert, now 56, painted a red circle on the limestone at the base of Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg, on Streitberger Schild in Germany’s Frankenjura cragging region—his idea of a way to denote that the climb’s moves had been freed. When Albert did the route bottom to top, no falls, he filled in the circle and a new term was born: the rotpunkt, or redpoint. Timmy O'NeillWith his irreverent antics, Philadelphia native Timmy O’Neill, 41, might be the climbing world’s best-known entertainer. And he’s no slouch on the rock, either. Along with difficult ascents from Patagonia to Pakistan, O’Neill excels at speed climbing—in 2001, he and Dean Potter blazed up the Nose of El Capitan in 3:24, then a record. He’s also a world-class slackliner, avid mountain biker, Class V paddler, BASE jumper, and backcountry skier.Players: Harald RoekerImagine this: climbing is your passion, your life, your raison d’être, so much so, in fact, that you leave a lucrative electrical-engineering job to make guidebooks. And then, to ensure those guidebooks’ accuracy, you maintain yourself as a ripped physical specimen so you can climb (and establish) routes across the entire grade spectrum, up to 5.14b/c (Walk of Life, Allgäu) and V13/14 (Feuerwalze, Schwäbische Alb).Adam HenryAdam Henry, 39, one of the Southeast’s leading access and new-route advocates, was born in Houston to an engineer father who passed away when Henry was 9. His mother did whatever was necessary to keep life comfortable, despite money struggles. At 14, Henry worked 12-hour days in construction — earning $20 a day — to help pay the bills. From age 5 to 18, Henry played football, leaving the sport after he discovered climbing at the Palisades, Alabama.Andrew BurrAndrew Burr, Climbing’s Senior Contributing Photographer, never had any professional training. After graduating from the University of Utah with a degree in geological engineering, he worked as a hydrologist for the USGS. After three years, Burr left the field to pursue his photography dreams. Despite his blind tumble into the shooting world, Burr has received international recognition...Players - Chris MalloyIn the mid-1990s, the California filmmaker Chris Malloy (see Reviews, p.78, for more on his new eco/climbing/surfing film, 180° South) had a dream pad on Oahu, Hawaii, with his brothers, Keith and Dan. The three — all pro surfers then — would swim Waimea Bay, run the beach, and do a bouldering traverse. Malloy befriended another surfer/climber, Jeff Johnson, who moved in and built a climbing wall.Quiet Crusher: Matt Wilder"I don't think of myself as an adrenaline seeker; the rocks inspire me,” says Matt Wilder of his November 2009 first ascent of Cheating Reality (5.14a R) on the monolithic Devil’s Thumb formation near Boulder, Colorado. “It’s about taking this high thing that could be dangerous and making it conducive to my abilities.” Originally from Connecticut, Wilder, 31, today lives in Boulder, where he’s working toward his PhD in computer science.Loving Every Minute of it: Rob PizemBorn in Ohio, Rob Pizem started climbing 15 years ago on the sandstone of Cleveland’s Hinkley Reservation. He later moved west to attend the Colorado School of Mines, in Golden, for geological engineering — and as the saying goes, he never looked back.All-Around Phenom: Ines PapertFresh off winning the women’s category at the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival, the German superstar Ines Papert, 35, is fitter than ever. An all-around ice, mixed, and rock jock, Parpert swept the Ouray comp in 2005, beating all the men, and from 2000 to 2006 won a record 21 Ice World Cup events. (See Climbing No. 282 for a profile.) Kasia Pietras - The 2009 Triple Crown QueenI met up with Kasia Pietras, who won the 2009 Triple Crown Open Women’s overall title. The interview took place at Kasia’s workplace, the Tennessee Bouldering Authority (www.tbagym.com), a southeastern bouldering institution where several of the regions strongest rock rats train. Pietras grew up in Chicago and regularly drove seven hours to Kentucky, to sport climb in the Red River Gorge. Before the recorder began, she explained that she’s currently attending the University of Tennessee-Knoxville, but plans to start attending massage therapy school in the fall.Doug EnglekirkClimber, General Contractor, Family Man, Surfer, Poker Player, Christian; Zephyr Cove, Nevada - Doug Englekirk, 47, has navigated the American road for 28 years, but today the 1990s comp crusher usually reaches the crags via his single-engine Cessna Centurion. A self-described type A person, Englekirk competed in the World Cup from 1990 to ’94 (two top-10 finishes) and was the US National Sport Champion from 1992 to ’94.Alan Carne: British Expat King of the VerdonI was born in Manchester in the industrial north of England in 1960. Some would say on the wrong side of the Pennines, being one hour from the Gritstone Edges as opposed to Sheffield being only 20 minutes. But I have always loved my hometown, Its fine old Victorian buildings, Its industrial heritage, and though less well known for, a certain mountaineering heritage. British legends such Don Whillans, Joe Brown, Alex Macintyre, Al Rouse, and others were from Manchester or nearby.Interview with Alpinist Adrian BallingerAdrian has been living his dream as a climber, skier, and high-altitude alpine guide for over 15 years. He climbed Everest for the first time in April of this year, and the experience will be featured during the next week on the Discovery Channel’s show, Everest: Beyond the Limit. He runs a succesful business making others’ dreams of summiting some of the world’s most dangerous peaks come true. We’ve asked Adrian about what inspires him, what scares him, and what motivates him to continue his quest to push the limit, to define new boundaries, and discover the truth within himself.Renny JacksonAlpinist, climbing ranger, guidebook author, historian, father; Kelly, Wyoming - For 38 years, Renny Jackson, 57 has climbed nonstop, from Alaska to the Himalaya, from desert sandstone, to Yosemite, to the Tetons. His name is near synonymous with his current theater of operations, Grand Teton National Park, where he’s the Jenny Lake subdistrict ranger, managing an elite team of mountain search-and-rescue rangers.Huntley IngallsDesert Pioneer, Tower Master, Cave Explorer, Geophysicist, Mathematician; Boulder, Colorado - Stop to chat with the desert pioneer Huntley Ingalls and you quickly sense the lifelong hunger for exploration that fueled his 50-odd first ascents. In 1956, working for the National Geological Survey, Ingalls discovered the untapped potential of eastern Utah’s vast desert. He met Layton Kor in 1959, and the pair went on to first-ascend such formations as: Castleton Tower’s Kor-Ingalls (III 5.9; September 1961); the Titan’s Finger of Fate, (IV 5.8 A3; Ingalls, Kor, George Hurley; May 1962); and Monument Basin’s Standing Rock (IV 5.7 A3; Ingalls, Kor, Steve Komito; October 1962).
Timy FairfieldWorld Cup Winner, Professional Climber, Route-Setter, Coach; Albuquerque, New Mexico - If you've seen Timy Fairfield, 40, climb, you know he has the preternatural fluidity that signals an evolved grimpeur. Fairfield, in the late 1990s, became one of the early Americans to immerse himself in World Cup culture, entering 100 international events.The Guatemalan - Gabriel Moch’s North American Boulderering JourneyAt 23 years old Gabriel Moch has reached an impressive level as the second Latin American climber to send The Mandala (V12) at the Buttermilk Boulders, near Bishop California. Moch was born in Guatemala, raised in Brazil and began climbing at the age of ripe age 16. After only two years on the rock he sent Morfina (5.13a) at Cerra do Cipo, in Brazil and helped develop a bouldering area near Sao Paulo called Valinhos with over 300 problems varying from V0-V10 where he made the first ascent of many of them.STEVE SWENSONAlpinist, Engineer, Family Man, Free Spirit, President of the American Alpine Club; Seattle, Washington - Steve Swenson, 55, is the quintessential Northwest hardman. His climbing career spans four decades and includes the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981; the FA of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup, in Nepal, in 1989; and the FA of the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat, in 2004.The Phil Schaal InterviewBy Caroline Treadway (aka C-Note) courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Phil Schaal’s been killing it recently. In the past year alone, this Connecticut climber has ticked 15 V13s, including some rare repeats of hard East Coast lines The Book of Bitter Aspects (V13) in Bradley, Conn., Agent Orange (V13) in the Gunks, and the Chelsea Smile (V13), Ty Landman’s new sit start to Divine Providence in Lincoln Woods.Tom Frost: The Full Perspective InterviewYosemite big-wall first ascentionist, gear inventor, photographer; Oakdale, California - In the Yosemite annals, Tom Frost, 72, of Oakdale, California, looms large. When El Capitan was a blank canvas, Frost swung leads on the FAs of two of the world’s finest big walls, the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 C2; Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Frost; 1961) and the North America Wall (VI 5.8 A2; Robbins, Pratt, Frost, Chouinard; 1964).Everything is IlluminatedInterviews by Matt Samet - “Sleep came easily before the redpoint,” says Shawn Diamond, 26, of his December 28 FA of the hyper-perilous Luminance (V11), a 16-move highball at the Buttermilk, California. “But I could hardly close my eyes the night after, from the adrenaline.” Diamond, a Cali native now in med school at the University of Cornell Weill Medical College in New York City, was spotted (bravely) by Sara Orens and Walker Emerson, the latter tying into an anchor, to keep him and Diamond from plunging 40 feet off the downsloping ledge below the problem.The Thunder from Down UnderWhen I first met Chris Webb Parsons, he was just some random climber around a campfire in Australia. It was 2007, and I was camping alone amongst the kangaroos, wallabies, and kookaburras at Stapleton Campground, in the Grampians. Eating sardines in the dark one night, Chris and his mates invited me over to their circle.Jeremy Collins: The InterviewInterview by Adam Peters /pimpinandcrimpin.com - Chances are, if you’ve picked up a climbing mag in the past ten years or so you have no doubt seen Jeremy Collin’s artwork. Not only does he monopolize the creative genius you see gracing your magazine pages, but he stinking rips too! Haling from Kansas City, this dynamo is a first ascent slayer, grabbing FA’s from Arkansas sandstone to Black Canyon granite.David Ethan Graham - Professional Climber, Loner Gypsy, Cult-Sci-Fi Fanatic, Laptop Beat Maker, Nocturnal Tweaker; formerly of Portland, MaineCompiled by Abbey Smith - The hard-climbing icon Dave Graham, 26, is manic, tweaky, and opinionated. He’s also best understood in person and in his element - with friends and at the rocks, where you’ll find him in a hoody and sneakers, waving his gangly arms to pantomime Beta.Steph Davis: The InterviewBy Andrew Tower courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Steph Davis is one radical lady. She has certainly been there and done that. From climbing desert towers to jumping off them to Patagonia alpine to Yosemite big walls she has had a sticky little hand in each and every pot of climbing joy. See Climbing 272, on sale in January 2009, for a Perspective with Steph Davis.Emily Harrington: The InterviewBy Andrew Tower courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Emily Harrington climbs hard inside and out. She’s a comp killin, climbing dynamo and will simply not stop crushing. We did get her to sit down and give us some answers about her life, what she’s doing, and how she might or might not want to be an assassin for the CIA.Henry Barber - Free-Climbing Pioneer, Free Soloist, Trad Climber, Motivational Speaker, Purist; North Conway, New HampshireBorn in Boston in 1953, Henry Barber is a prolific first ascentionist, pioneer of clean climbing, and free soloist; in the 1970s, he was perhaps the world’s best free climber, period.Timmy O'Neill: The InterviewBy Andrew Tower (aka Wig)Photos by Caroline Treadway (aka C-Note) / PimpinandCrimpin.com - What I do is interact with humanity through myriad forms of communication both real/in-person and virtual. It's climber/kayaker/mountain biker, meets life-coach, plays mad rock and roll drums, and changes lives through climbing.Courage on K2: Part 2As told to: Kristin Bjornsen - These interviews are a continuation of the article “Courage on K2” (No. 270, October 2008), which detailed the events of August 1-2, 2008, when 11 people were killed by icefall, avalanches, falls, and causes unknown on the upper reaches of K2, the world’s second highest mountain.Courage on K2: Part 3As told to: Kristin Bjornsen - These interviews are a continuation of the article “Courage on K2” (No. 270, October 2008), which detailed the events of August 1-2, 2008, when 11 people were killed by icefall, avalanches, falls, and causes unknown on the upper reaches of K2, the world’s second highest mountain.
Interview with Nicolas FalacciOriginally from Massachusetts, Nicolas Falacci is a true “Gunky” who became a television writer, producer and is the co-creator and executive producer of the CBS show “Numb3rs.” Nick got started climbing over 20 years ago after finishing college at the Tisch School of the Arts at New York University.Q and A with Taylor Clarkin - Winner of 2008 World Youth Speed Climbing ChampionshipsCongratulations to Taylor Clarkin for winning the 2008 IFSC World Youth Speed Climbing Championships on August 28-31, 2008 in Sydney, Australia. She was the only American competitor amongst the 45 member US youth national team to bring home the Gold this year.Boone Sheridan Speed - Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, Entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, OregonRaised in the Mormon town of Lindon, Utah, Boone Sheridan Speed, 42, never quite fit in. Speed's was a dual world, with artistic parents (his father, Grant Speed, is a renowned Western bronze sculptor) who were also devout Mormons. Click here for a Chuck Fryberger video of Speed at his family foundry.Tying into the Sharp End - An Interview with Peter MortimerYou've seen Peter Mortimer's films. I assure you that you liked them. I know because they are great films. Well he's about to drop another one for us. It's called Sharp End. I sat down and watched the trailer a few nights ago and thought WOW — This is going to be awesome! Some completely legit shredding of the gnar-gnar. Click Here to watch the Sharp End Trailer by Sender FilmsMiguel Ventura - Pizza maker, artist, family man, social servant; Red River Gorge, Kentucky Climbers will find a welcome bit of reverse discrimination at Miguel’s Pizza, in the heart of the Red River Gorge, in Slade, Kentucky. A pizza box tacked to a tree out front reads “Climbers Only.” The man behind the sign is Portuguese émigré Miguel Ventura, 56, the owner of perhaps the most climber-friendly joint in the country.Project 365 – Climbing Devils Tower Every Day for a YearBy Luke Laeser - Frank Sanders, 57, owns Devils Tower Lodge, a guide service and basecamp for climbers located a few hundred yards away from the crack climbing kingdom of Devils Tower National Monument in Northeast Wyoming. Frank succeeded in climbing on the tower every day (except for five days when his back was out). Despite this small hurdle, he still managed to top out 365 times.Q & A with Jonathan SiegristOn Monday, June 2, 2008 Jonathan Siegrist, 22, made the third ascent of Grand Ole Opry at the Monastery, Colorado. Originally rated 5.14a by its creator, Tommy Caldwell, the climb was uprated to 5.14c by Andy Raether after he did the second ascent, in 2007. Climbing hard and under the radar, Siegrist, a full-time student at Naropa University and routesetter at the Boulder Rock Club, did the route in just around 10 days.Riccardo Cassin - The Full InterviewCompiled by Federica Valabrega - Climber, author, blacksmith, Italian idol of extreme alpinism on ice and rock in the twentieth century, with over 100 first ascents to his name; born in 1909 at Savorgnano di San Vito al Tagliamento, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy.Jim Thornburg - Photographer, Climber, Belayer to the StarsWhether he’s shooting with his Canon EOS 5D or climbing, the California native Jim Thornburg, 43, is at home at the crags. Thornburg first hit the rocks at 17 and has since combined stone and photography into his life’s work, traveling the globe.Steve McClure - The Full InterviewBy Abbey Smith - Even facing dreary English conditions, no set training schedule, seepy local crags, all-day routesetting sessions to make ends meet, raising a 20-month-old daughter, DIY house-dismantling projects, coaching, and writing, "Strong" Steve McClure still sets world standards.The Full Johnny Dawes InterviewFiercely intelligent, iconoclastic, dancing to the eternal vibrations of the rock that the rest of us just pull past -Johnny Dawes, 43, the irrepressible English climber who brought solid E8 (Gaia, an E8 6c at Black Rocks) and the world's first E9 (Indian Face, E9 6c, 150 feet of technical, 5.12c death at Clogwyn D'ur Arddu) to the world during his manic blitzkrieg in 1986.Jacinda (JC) Hunter: The Full InterviewDwindling daylight obscures the mini-crimps on Barbwire Beard, a V11 traverse established by Adam Osterhoff in 2003 that snakes out of a dark cave in Upper Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). It's a hot, humid, breezeless Saturday - three days climbing out of four for Jacinda (JC) Hunter.The Color of LifeThe accomplished wall specialist Silvia Vidal, 36, of Barcelona, Spain, recently stuck her neck out (solo) on a new Shipton line: Life is Lilac, completed over 21 days this July (10 through 30) and clocking in at 2,900 feet, 5.10 A4+.The Complete Jim Holloway InterviewIn 1975, Jim Holloway, 6' 4" and with cable for tendons, shoed up beneath Cloud Shadow Wall, above Boulder, Colorado. His project lay on the convex east end of the sandstone face. Holloway fished his right hand into a fingertip undercling, crimped the left on a layaway, and pulled on.The Emperor of Mount RobsonJim Logan, a youthful 60, runs an architecture firm in Boulder, but often plays hookie to climb in Eldorado and at the Boulder Rock Club. He ranks the Emperor Face as one of his three great climbs, along with the 1960s FFAs of the Diamond on Longs Peak and the punishing offwidth Crack of Fear (5.10) at Lumpy Ridge.
The Complete Pat Ament InterviewWhen Climbing asked the legendary Colorado climber Pat Ament to help us with a Perspective piece, he gave us such deep, thoughtful, well-reasoned answers that we decided to post this interview with him in its entirety. Ament (patament.com) also provided us with these shots of him, past and present.