Josune Bereziartu - Pro Blogs - Climbing Magazine

Josune Bereziartu - Pro Blogs


Josune Bereziartu - Pro BlogsShe climbs at a level far beyond the rest of the women in the world. She was the first to do 5.14b (8c) by climbing Honky Tonky in May of 1998. She's done 5.14d redpoints (Bimbaluna (5.14d/15a)and Bain de Sang (5.14c/d)), and she's climbed over 30 5.14 routes, including an onsight of Hidrofobia (5.13d/14a). She comes from the Basque region of Spain, a region of the world going off these days for hard climbing.

Bereziartu - Pro Blog 13I always have the sensation and feeling that climbing isn't an easy activity. The difficulty of where to place my feet and the non-balance sensation was really what attracted me to the sport.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 12For many climbers Easter vacation is scary; the first day I started my climbing Easter vacation was bad, and it finished worse. Rikar had an accident that could have been really serious.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 11I stopped in a supermarket, with the intention of buying a bunch of food for the next two weeks; this was at the beginning of the month, so this text is about what I did in the beginning of March and the last week of February. After that, I was driving to the west of Spain to Catalonia.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 10Mandragora, an 8c [5.14b] route, is the name of my last hard achievement. For my dear Rikar Mandragora, this was his first alpine route climbed so many years ago in the Ordesa Valley, in the Pyrenees.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 9Last weekend, January 13 and 14, I did two different activities. On Saturday I climbed a classic north face in the Pyrenees. The next day, I tried Begi Puntuan, the 9a [5.14d] Patxi [Usobiaga] climbed a few weeks ago.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 8Well I'm back again with renewed energy. Last December, I was pretty lazy. I didn't write my second blog of the month. You know, we live, we move around cycles; days and nights, months and seasons, years.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 7I usually don’t drink coffee, I admit that I like it a lot, but when I go climbing or training it makes me feel shakey. So, not good feelings for pushing myself.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 6I am climbing again, back at home, in the Basque Country. The weather is definitely changing. It’s a kind of “tropical” weather that we are having.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 5Hey guys, I enjoyed the states a lot! I feel Smith Rock is like those strange and rare pearls that are so different, so beautiful. It seems climbing mainstream only thinks of medium size holds on huge overhanging walls. Smith Rock is quite different.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 4I am in the States right now. I came a few days ago. We flew from Europe directly to Portland (Oregon). The trip didn't start very well. First, driving sleepy to the airport of Bilbao (Euskadi), the right front wheel of our car got pricked so we had to change it with the extra time needed and we were in a hurry.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 3For four or five years, a boulder meeting is organized in the center of Spain. Navalosa is a very rural, small village located under the rocky mountains of the “Sierra de Gredos.” Each year a lot of boulderers colonize the village and dress up the fields with the different colors of crash pads.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 2This summer it’s been pretty different for me as others; I changed completely the climbing scenery. Before I didn’t place gear so much, and, of course, I couldn’t afford such special climbing in such a single and loose rock terrain. This happened in the Ordesa Valley, located in the center of the Pyrenees.Bereziartu - Pro Blog 1It is August and right now I am training on my wall for a successful fall. I’m In front of the ventilation machine I have the hope that the removed air will also refresh my pumped forearms in order to keep on going in my series. But instead and by the moment, the only thing that I get with the fresh air machine is a messed up mind!