Free soloing means climbing with no rope, a genre that verged into American consciousness in the 1970s. In 2018 it blew up, with Alex Honnold's mind-bending solo of El Capitan and the award-winning film that chronicled it. Let's take a look back.
A month at sea, with its requisite sickness and insomnia, didn’t stop Berthe from having an incredible Yosemite season.
KG Kagambi, a member of the Full Circle Expedition and the only non-American on the team, reflects on his Everest experience.
It’s hard to see George Mallory the man through the fog of myth that’s enshrouded him since his death on Everest in 1924. But he was a man, sometimes brilliant, sometimes bumbling, whose rise to fame occurred only in the final three years of his life.
The respected mountain guide was on a fixed rope, approaching the top, when she slipped out of her harness. A friend remembers a pioneering climber and a loss 40 years ago this month.
"If plumbing had bouldering grades I was a V15 plumber. The Adam Ondra of pipes and turd herding."
We've all been there: an undisciplined leader with no pride pitches a fit like a little child. Gear Guru knows what to do then.
"Eating disorders are often symptoms of larger issues. Bearing witness develops empathy.”
Earl Wiggins was a leading free climber and soloist in the 1970s and 1980s. (He did the FA of Supercrack / Luxury Liner in Indian Creek... placing hexes.) But in the early 2000s, he took his own life.
The actress, dancer, photographer, and Nazi filmmaker was a close friend of Hitler, and one of the progenitors of the mountain film industry.
"I like to find something that feels impossible and then, by working a lot and training a lot, find it possible. The challenge is the motivation."
Lhakpa Sherpa: Female world-record holder for (UPDATED) climbing Everest 10 times; mountain guide, single mother; Hartford, Connecticut.
Antisemitic Statements by a Climbing Pioneer Prompt the American Alpine Club to Rename a Prestigious Honor
The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, given since 1983 to legends like Lynn Hill, Yvon Chouinard, Conrad Anker, and Alex Honnold, will be rebranded because of racist remarks made in the 1930s and 1940s by Robert L.H. Underhill, a major figure in the history of U.S. mountaineering
Last summer, Tiffany Thiele, a young rock climber from Reno, Nevada, took her life after posting a Facebook message saying a ski patroller had raped her. She left behind an unsolvable mystery about what really happened, along with urgent questions about whether more could have been done to heal her feelings of pain and distrust.
The American climber pushed the boundaries of free soloing and speed soloing, and was a preeminent highliner and BASE jumper.
As Mothers' Day approaches—May 8, don't forget—we asked.
Climbing head injuries can happen anywhere: from the Salathé on El Cap to your favorite little sport crag. Here are five climbers' nightmare scenarios.
The New Zealand mountaineer achieved international fame after his summit of the world’s highest peak in 1953. He also visited the North and South Pole, among other ventures.
The Slovenian is climbing’s first female Olympic medalist, the first woman to onsight 5.14b, and perhaps our sport’s strongest overall competitor
In January 2022, Swiss climber and paragliding pilot Mario Heller joined forces with Argentina’s Pablo Pontoriero and Switzerland’s Roger Schäli to climb up and fly off Cerro Torre.
The 21-year-old was climbing V10 by the age of nine and was the USA’s first qualified Olympic climber.
"So with the Olympics, I was like, Yeah, it would be amazing, but I wasn’t going to be disappointed if I didn’t make it. It’s just icing on the cake that I did."
What does it mean to become a “real climber”—and do you need to risk your life in the process? Seeking an answer, the author revisits the folly of his youthful climbs in the White Mountains, New Hampshire.
Climbing legend Jim Erickson pulls the curtain back to reveal what really happened ... or didn't happen.
Never again will there be anywhere like Sibleyville, outside Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where for 50 years climbers came to crash—and when they crashed.
Mount Lucania in the Yukon was seldom climbed. There were reasons why.
After being diagnosed with Hodgkinds Lymphoma, and one helluva battle, Favia Dubyk uses climbing to get back her strength.
The author lost his father in an accident at the crag nearly 50 years ago. He’s taken that long to be able to write about it.
The German mountaineer is chasing a seemingly impossible record, and a lofty dream, on the world’s most famous peak.
In this excerpt from "Valley of Giants," a new anthology of writing by some Yosemite's most iconic women climbers, Beth Rodden describes how her six-month journey on Meltdown (5.14c) brought an end to one period of her life and introduced another.
Emilie Hernandez and Texas Lady Crushers are bringing diversity to climbing, one women-led clinic at a time.
Yuji Hiramaya was the first person to onsight 5.14b. He had the best onsight effort on The Salathé on El Cap for over 20 years. He also won World Cups in 1998 and 2000, did 5.15 first ascents, and now owns Base Camp Gym in Hidaka, Japan.
By the time of his and Sir Edmund Hillary's successful Everest climb, Norgay had been to the mountain six times and was a prolific high-altitude climber, earning numerous prestigious awards.
His was a remarkable rise from small-town life to Olympic immortality.
Alison Hargreaves and her son Tom Ballard were two of the finest alpinists of their eras. “The Last Mountain” skillfully exposes the void formed in their wakes, though it diminishes Ballard’s climbing partner in the process.
A stranger he met at the gym dropped him to the ground. In the aftermath, the author had to relearn how to climb—and to trust.
Rich Romano established some 80 routes, many of them R rated, at the steep and remote Millbrook, the Shawangunks, New York.
Cody Brown nearly lost his life to a rare blood disorder. Climbing helped bring him back, both physically and mentally.
Sometimes taking a step back is the right beta
The nine-fingered Dawn Wall climber was one of climbing’s first celebrities and a pioneer of big wall Yosemite free ascents.
The unique way women inspire each other to climb.
We asked 12 pros: What's the best piece of climbing advice you've received? Some of their answers are obvious, others are enlightening. But all are worthy considerations when out on the rock, plastic, or ice.
Molly Mitchell learns to how to get back on the sharp end.
Katie Lamb has racked up one of the most impressive bouldering ticklists of all time. But who is she?
"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.
The 26-year-old from Santa Cruz was on the final rappel, after a successful ascent of the mountain, when rockfall struck him.
Check out Delaney Miller's author page.
Sandbag: (noun) A route of substantially elevated difficulty in comparison to others of the same grade. (verb) To suggest a route of such character to a friend.
Seventy years ago, a woman climber-writer created a gritty, gifted, slum-born character.
Athletes need a space to train. Kimanda Jarzebiak provides that, plus, everything else.
Just who climbs a route first is nuanced, and with big money at stake the lines between success and failure have gotten fuzzier.
Sughra Yazdani fled the fall of Afghanistan in late 2021. A climber and involved community leader, her evacuation was made possible by Afghanistan Ascend, Leadership Through Athletics, a not-for-profit female climbing organization. Now, Yazdani hopes to pursue higher education here in the states.
1:00 a.m., on the way back from the Mountain Room Bar, wet rock after a rain. What could go wrong?
The fearless American free soloist brought climbing into the limelight, and upped the risk ante so high it may never be surpassed.
Girls weren't even allowed to use the local climbing wall. She fought for her access, and then made her way to the world stage.
Ian Powell, hold shaper, recounts how art and addiction impacted his life. He was one of the best in the industry; then he went to prison. 11 years free, he's since changed the industry, again.