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Unsent /un-sent/ 1. To have failed so badly on a route you had previously climbed that you negate your redpoint. 2. A humor column.
Well-bolted, nice movement, great beginner lead.
Fun route, but the grade is soft. If 1960s Direct at Old School Coliseum is 5.9, and Hemp Rope Special at the Layton Kor Playground is 5.8, then this should be 5.6.
Natalia, you can’t really compare old-school trad areas to new-school sport crags.
Went for this as my first outdoor lead based on Don’s suggestion. Thought “well-bolted” meant “a lot of bolts.” Turns out he meant the opposite. Avoid unless you are very confident at the grade.
I dunno! As a 5.13 climber, it felt pretty cruiser to me. And yes, well-bolted means not over-bolted. If you want sport climbing to be safe and fun, stay in the gym!
The right number of bolts is always zero. I say chop ‘em cause this whole route goes on taped-on skyhooks.
Ted Cassels and I toproped this in 1979 for the FA and called it Baby Blue Eyes aka Ted and Patty’s Wall. This generation has NO respect for history. You really thought you were the first person to climb this obvious gem? I hope you and your whole family die from a brain disease from spending too much time looking at Facebooks on your iComputers.
Hi, Patricia. I literally checked every guidebook from the last 30 years, looked in the AAC library, and consulted other locals to see if this had been done before. Sorry if we missed your ascent! We spent days cleaning off vegetation, so it seemed like it hadn’t been done previously.
We didn’t report it anywhere because we didn’t do it for fame or glory, unlike you. And it’s bullshit that you didn’t give us credit. I hate you and everyone under 60.
Climbed this again today. So nice! But if the Evolution Traverse is 5.9, then this is maybe hard fourth class.
Forgot a double set of cams, 20 draws, a rope, new pair of Solutions, $1,000 in non-sequential unmarked 20-dollar bills, and a 30-pound gold bar at the base of this route. If anyone finds my stuff, please call 555-491-8652 or better yet, just show up at 1489 Gloucester Court with it. I’ll give you one can of PBR for your trouble.
Felt more like 5.8. I skipped the second bolt and placed an RP to let you all know how strong and brave I am.
WARNING! There is a loose block the size of a toaster just left of the right-hand gastundercling. While this block is 20 feet from the line itself, the consequences would be disastrous if it fell and hit someone. As this route is located on NFS land, I’ve contacted the agency to request a full environmental impact review before we trundle the block, as it may affect the migratory paths of New Zealand mud snails.
Will be bringing a group to this climb—57 Cub Scouts—on Sunday, 10/28, to learn rock-clamping and survival knots. We’ll be on the route all day. If you want to up-rope with us just ask, but the answer will be “No.”
Be careful when lowering off this route. My 30-meter gym rope left me 60 feet short of the ground, and I had to call for a helicopter rescue.
Kelly, basic math should’ve told you that wasn’t going to work. All, happy to add a few more bolts. To be honest, we were cheap and didn’t expect anyone else to climb it.
THE ROUTE MUST BE CLIMBED IN THE STYLE OF THE FIRST ASCENTIONIST, AND IF YOU ADD A SINGLE BOLT I WILL CHOP IT THEN FIND YOU AND MAKE YOU EAT IT, EVEN IF YOU WERE THE FIRST ASCENTIONIST.
Tom, technically the first ascentionists were Patricia Orbacher and Ted Cassels, and they toproped it.
I don’t know what to feel anymore. I’m going to free solo until fear drowns out all other emotions. #YoloFreeSolo
Just ran a third lap. If the Nose on El Cap is 5.9 C2, then this should be considered a hike on flat ground.