Matt Jeffries gets inverted on Couch Time (5.12+) at Willow River State Park in Hudson, Wisconsin—hometown both to the photographer, Andy Wickstrom, who shot this image and to pro climber Alex Johnson. As one of the steepest crags in the Midwest, Willow offers radically overhanging limestone right above the scenic Willow River waterfall. The area has become popular through the years; it’s now a place to take selfies by the falls and to climb, with 47 sport routes from 5.9 up to the Andy Raether 5.14c Cain—including a preponderance of forearm-blasting cave crawls in the 5.12–5.13 range.
Summer 2020 has been grim, between the virus, social unrest, and rampant wildfires that have turned the West über-smoky. Still, climbers have been returning to the rocks to do what we do best: climb. Situated at 9,500 feet in the Bighorn Mountains above Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming, Crag 6 is a great summer hideout, with a cool breeze, tall trees, and techy, pumpy pitches on pocketed white limestone. Here, Val Shao climbs through the midsection on Bo Cleevil (5.13a/b) on the cliff’s Mushroom Tip wall. Like many of the neo-classics at Ten Sleep, the line was put up by Mike Snyder, one of the area’s tireless developers.