On February 7, 2020, Brittany Goris, 27, redpointed the perpetually shady, wind-whipped Joshua Tree thin-crack line Stingray (5.13d). The route, a right-leaning finger crack, was originally a 1988 Mike Paul toprope led by Hidetaka Suzuki that same year. The route has good—albeit painful—fingerlocks, and features a campusy low crux, then continuous climbing. “The pump builds until the redpoint crux, a section of no feet at the top where you must maintain body tension as the crack turns to offset,” says Goris. She placed all gear on lead, even going through “shenanigans” to do so when she sent on her fifth burn of the day. After her fourth burn, Goris down-aided to clean the crux piece, a 0.3 Camalot, then lowered off two cams placed from a no-hands below. On redpoint, Goris climbed up, removed the cams, clipped them to her harness, unclipped them, then placed them back in the crack. She was supported by Prithipal Khalsa, who sent before Goris but returned to belay.
When the snow begins to thaw in Washington’s Cascades, hidden gems reveal themselves throughout areas like the Stevens Pass Corridor. High above the Pacific Crest Trail—and accessed via steep hiking, a bit of bushwhacking, and post-holing through the late-season snow—lies a small but rewarding cirque of perfect, tight-grained granite blocs. One of its best problems is No More Time, a highball V10 compression arête established by Washington legend Johnny Goicoechea over a decade ago—and here climbed by Kevin Newell. As quarantines and stay-at-home orders begin to lift throughout the United States and world, climbers are back at the rocks again, the big question of course being, How do we recreate responsibly?